April 27-29 St. Augustine to Fernandina Beach

Remember - it's a Boat - and Boats can be challenging at all the wrong time!  We planned to depart @ 9a, but Navigator first had to secure her dinghy (Ivory Lady had done her's the night before). Unfortunately, it was a VERY heavy dew - so everything with slippery and wet, making the hoist challenging at best.  At then, the boat thing -- a leaking AC water pump and a fouled mooring line! Ivory Lady proceeded to the fuel docks and retrieved the bikes while Navigator addressed the challenges quickly.  Timing was perfect as we rendezvoused and approached the Bridge of the Lions just as the bridge was opening.  This was significant because CB was determined to challenge the bridge’s 20’ clearance with his 21’ (we think) boat height.  Crisis averted, we proceeded on a pleasant cruise up the Tolomato River and through the marshy backlands of Florida.

Approaching Jacksonville on a sunny Sunday afternoon, we were entertained  by scores of boats containing college kids out for a little sun & fun.  Quiet a pleasant sight!  We also had another osprey nest sighting -- this time atop a lovely home!

We had chosen again to split the trip into two days - making each day 31 miles. The approach into Palm Cove was at low tide, which left little excess clearance but we managed to dock without running aground.  The marina is nice with floating docks, a pool, and in close proximity to Publix, Walgreens, West Marine, and a couple of restaurants - though again with a dockmaster ill-prepared for our arrival.  Learning the same lesson over again is always painful - even though the reservation had been confirmed twice, call 30 minutes out and be a pest!

The morning dawned to another beautiful day and we continued up the Tolomato River and more marshlands into the St. Johns River, just West of the Fort George inlet.  As we entered the river, silhouettes of ships docked at Mayport Naval Station could be seen to our East and the DDG 68 the Sullivans was raised in dry dock to our west at Fort George Island shipyard.  An Arleigh Burke class "Aegis" guided missile destroyer, it is named after five brothers who lost their lives together on a single naval ship (USS Juneau) in 1942.  This single tragic act changed the military assignment policy for family members to ensure they remain separated on different vessel and units.

We are truly in the land of rivers and their tidal effects. As we approached Nassua Sound, we enjoyed the benefits of an out-board tide providing an additional 3 knots of speed.  As we entered the Sound, where three rivers (Back, Nassua, Amelia) Rivers empty into the Atlantic, we got a great look at the effect of a tidal flow when Ivory Lady, a hundred yards ahead of Navigator, began to move sideways at about 3 kts.  Needless to say, as we turned and headed up Amelia River we paid back that 3 knots as we bucked the same outbound tide!

For the remainder of the trip, Amelia Island shadowed our starboard side; the southern most barrier island in a chain that stretches thru North Carolina.  Spanish Franciscans established Santa Maria de Sena Mission in 1573 and christen the Island Santa Maria, which by the way is the second oldest continuously occupied city (Santa Maria) in the US behind St. Augustine.  The British “colonized” the island in 1702 and later renamed it "Amelia Island" in honor of Princess Amelia, George II’s daughter.

We arrived at Fernandina Harbor Marina with a swift north-bound tide and strong south wind (coming from the south to north).  A prudent Captain would have docked heading south into it all but the Dockmaster had his own idea and restricted our approach to down tide and down wind. We suspect they do this just for entertainment because we all put on quite a show trying to get into a shallow, narrow channel and tie-up to a long dock with plenty of other boats in the way.  Lesson learned, if you and the Dockmaster can’t agree on how to approach a dock, go someplace else!

One of the many benefits of our speed (or lack thereof) is getting into port in time for a late lunch (complete with a docktail to overcome the docking experience).  The afternoon was spent with chores (grocery, drug store, ordering A/C power, etc).  There are so many treasures along the way - this one is a carousel house!  This is the front porch of a large Victorian house.  We had already learned the difference between a carousel and a merry-go-round in St. Augustine. Carousels go counter-clockwise and only have horses, while merry-go-rounds go clockwise and can have any number of types of animals and riding conveyances.

Tuesday morning dawned cool and clear, so a bike ride by CB & AJ took them to the Beach of Fernandina Beach.  Then mid-day was a leisurely shop through the lovely little town.  By evening, the weather was changing and a significant rain rinsed off the boats!  Dinner that evening was at 29 East, where we were joined by Steve & Bonnie Sawyer from Marathon Yacht Club.  We returned to the boats without using the umbrellas and readied for a departure on Wednesday morning.

April 24-26 Daytona Beach to St. Augustine

What a way to start an absolutely perfect cruise - departed Halifax YC in perfect time for the only early morning opening of the Memorial Street Bridge.  An omen for what would become the most peaceful cruise of the trip.  We meandered up the Matanzas River through wild life preserves, saltwater estuaries, and deep canals (some 30’).  We encountered several manatees, some heading south.  They must have gotten far enough north to realize we are having a crazy winter and decided to return to the warm waters of Florida until it passes!

We finally entered the flat marshland found in Northern Florida, Georgia, and South Carolina, which will now be consistent scenery for several days/weeks.  The question will be -- go outside (shorter & quicker) or meander as the rivers do and enjoy the journey! One of the most formidable inputs along the Florida east coast is Matanzas Pass, south of St. Augustine.  It's known for constant and significant shoaling -- and CB has been through when the east (green) marker was literally 5' from the west (red) side of the channel.  Both captains were pleased to see a sailboat directly in front of us as we approached the Pass.  The plan -- follow the sailboat because he draws more than either Ivory Lady or Navigator. What should have been a great plan failed, as the sailboat neglected to follow the temporary green markers and ran aground! Ivory Lady  & crew knew better - and by following the channel as clearly marked by the temporary green markers, neither of our vessels saw less than 14'. However, the sailboat made life very difficult for Navigator as it struggled to get off the shoal, drop the sails and get back into the channel -- it pulled right in front of Navigator!  Great seamanship by CA avoided what could have been very ugly!

As you enter St. Augustine northbound on the ICW, you are guided by the still active St. Augustine Lighthouse (circa 1874) located on the north end of Anastasia Island.  The omen of the morning for a peaceful cruise held - until just before we were picking up mooring balls in the south field of the St. Augustine Municipal Marina.  The marina staff is very helpful and the mooring field laid out & marked very well.  However, with competing tides and winds, it made for a difficult and frustrating few hours.  





There were times during the first hours that both CA & CB claimed (in colorful language) that every boat in the field was pointing a different direction, not to mention the trailing dinks that were smashing against their mother ship in an unpredictable sequence.  Within a few hours, everything calmed, it was a delightful evening and a truly enjoyable mooring for three nights.

Friday morning dawned to a simply glorious day with the anticipation of two days to explore historic St. Augustine.  CB & AJ launched early in search of marine supplies - and what a delight to find a first rate establishment (Marine Supply & Oil Co) within easy biking distance.  We'd dropped off the bicycles the evening before and thoroughly enjoyed the ride through the back streets.  CA & PC came ashore, grabbed their bikes and a short ride later, we're at Harry's Seafood Café (Cajun Bistro) for lunch. We decided to begin our afternoon aboard one of the sight-seeing trolleys to get a good tour & lay of the land for the rest of our stay.  These tours provide a great foundation with significant history & background.

A major influence in St. Augustine in 19th Century, Henry Flagler (patriach of Florida's East Coast) wanted to build one of his signature hotels - the Ponce de Leon.  A man of significant wealth, Flagler would accept no opposition to his vision.  His chosen location was, unfortunately, the home of a Methodist Church. So, he builds a larger & more opulent structure somewhere else, offers it to the congregation, they accept - and the rest, as they say, "was history".  The Ponce is now a major part of Flagler University.

After finishing the Ponce for the Nation’s richest patrons, he built another spectacular hotel, the Alcazar, for those slightly less well off.   Curiously, this hotel had all the entertainment and sporting facilities that the Ponce lacked (indoor swimming pool, tennis, bowling, archery) and you could book it for a day stay versus a full season as was the case for the Ponce.

His third hotel was "acquired" when he forced the developer into bankruptcy by “delaying” the shipment of all the hotel furnishings being shipped on the Eastern Florida Railroad (owned by Flagler).  Once the owner went bankrupt,  Flagler bought the hotel for pennies on the dollar.  Three days after the closing, the furnishing mysteriously arrived -- all in the true spirit of the “Robber Barons” of the day.

Moving on to the 20^th Century,  Dr Martin Luther King organized and participated in the first civil-rights demonstration in the South; a march through the city following the arrest of four Black men setting at a Woolworth lunch counter in St. Augustine.  In fact, locals here boast that Martin Luther King St in St. Augustine is the only street named after the Civil Rights Leader that he actually marched on in protest.

Why St. Augustine you ask?  Few realize that St. Augustine contained the first community of legally recognized ex-slaves dating back to 1738. Just prior to the Civil war ending the Emancipation Proclamation was read in only once place throughout the entire State of Florida, St Augustine. Finally, in 1866 an entire portion of St. Augustine, called Lincolnville, was established as a community of ex-slaves.  They remain proud of that heritage today.

The tour was quite informative and reinforced our decision that St. Augustine is a "must stop" -- either by land or by sea!  We had earmarked El Galeon, Castillo de San Marcos, Dow Historical Homes, St. Augustine Distillery & San Sebantian Winery for the next day

Visiting St. Augustine as part of their 450th Anniversary is El Galeón, an impressive Spanish 170-foot wooden replica of the Galleons that visited St. Augustine in the early 1600s.  Along side and permanently berthed at St. Augustine is the Nao Victoria, a replica of the first ship to successfully circumnavigate the world.  El  Galeón is a very impressive replica; all wood with a crew of 28 who have been sailing her for three and a half years throughout the world.

Castillo de San Marcus is a commanding Spanish fortress started in 1672 and finished 23 years later; the oldest masonry structure in the United States.  A fortress so well designed and built out of a Florida masonry product called coquina stone, that during its occupancy by six different nations it was never defeated during the 16 sieges of the fort.






We were fortunate to be there on a weekend day, where they do a reenactment & firing of a major cannon!  Quite a site with more of the reenactors being volunteers - I can't imagine those uniforms in August!

While many of you  may find this amazing - we decided to tour the St. Augustine Distillery!  It has been open for only seven weeks and is the first "legal" distillery in Florida.  Housed in the historic ice plant built in 1907, it required over $2M to restore and ready for the distillery business.  While they have a very informative video explaining the vision of the business, we were treated to a discussion with the CEO, Brendan Daniel.  He & his team have a real community spirit and are dedicated to bringing historic crops and processes back to this area while producing a value-added product in partnership with the Community.  It is truly a "craft" distillery, as they buy only local produce and encourage the farmers to grow historical crops, such as sugar cane and citrus. Literally everything (>95%) is American made, including the bottles (which turned out to be very difficult to locate!).  As they have only been producing for a few weeks, the bourbon will be at least 2 1/2 to 4 years before it is ready.  However, we were able to taste the Vodka and it was great!  Can’t wait for the rum (which they will start in the next few months) and bourbon to mature.  In discussions with Brendan following the tour, he explained that they have been only 3 1/2 years, getting to this point - which is amazing considering all the acquisitions, permits, renovations and even laws being changed to make it a reality!  It was truly exciting to hear and we were all thrilled with the American/local focus - and we left with a couple of bottles for each boat! 

We spent so much time in the Distillery, we skipped the winery and made a quick capture of the trolley, a run through the Historic Dow homes (7 houses) and then to a lovely little spot for refreshments.  We then headed to the dinghies for rides back to the boats, dinners aboard and preparation for moving on in the morning!

April 22 - 23 NASA Anchorage to Daytona Beach

Navigator as the Sun Rises!

The winds calmed, just as the weather forecasters had predicted.  That, alone, is something to celebrate! When cruising, weather becomes your guidepost and the calendar becomes the least important item on the boat.  It was a lovely night at anchor and an even more glorious sunrise!

It has been a long spell since we have cruised anywhere but the sandy sea floor of South Florida’s Waterways - but when the boats pulled anchor, we were quick to recall that the rivers, lagoons, and sounds of the north have black, smelly mud bottoms.  No way were the anchor chains going in the lockers in that condition!  Ivory Lady ran her fresh water tank dry and Navigator had to rig a hose from the engine room to rinse the anchor & chain. You can count on Navigator getting the wash-down system fixed and Ivory Lady finding a solution for a salt water washdown!

We left the tranquil anchorage at the Space Center and headed for the Haulover Canal (one of AJ's favorite gems long the east coast).  The Haulover Canal is so named because until the canal was built, boaters had to "haul over"or portage across this spit of land as they sought safe & navigable waters between the Mosquito Lagoon to the north and the Indian River Lagoon to the south. What a sight!  Right in the middle of the canal were several manatees frolicking about around a boat launch.  Finally, we found the elusive manatee -- even though we have endured miles & miles of manatee zones.  

  

The rest of our journey was filled with nature watching, as our path was chock-full with birds of every variety, more manatees, dolphins, white pelicans and a score of white butterflies that appeared to travel the entire distance with us.  We also saw Florida’s tallest lighthouse, the Ponce de Leon Inlet Lighthouse.  Finished in 1887, it is impressive at 175’ tall with a light that could be seen 20 miles away.  It has been well preserved and is used as a museum today.

We arrived at the Halifax River Yacht Club midday and enjoyed a guided tour of the oldest Yacht Club on the Eastern Seaboard still on its original site (circa 1895).  It is a lovely building with very friendly staff and the friendliest members!   Two days in a location is wonderful - we had the opportunity to enjoy the Club, the downtown area, the Chocolate Factory (yeah!), the pool and simply savoring a beautiful day.  

April 17 - 21 Vero Beach to Melbourne & Melbourne to NASA RR Anchorage

April 17 - Vero Beach to Melbourne

We had an early departure and a couple of high-speed runs to beat the rain.  The only obstacle was the slow speed traffic that is characteristic of the ICW. As Easter approaches coupled with the end of the month, traffic seems to be like the slow lane on I-95. (Is there a slow lane on I-95?) We witnessed some pretty wild passing by other boats and some pretty colorful radio calls.  All was a little surprising considering the simple protocol required to pass another boat.  You merely call them on Channel 16 and request a passing on their port or starboard side.  After which, you minimize your speed to allow for the smallest wake and still maintain adequate speed to pass at a “reasonable” pace.  The boat being passed has the option to slow thus minimizing the need for the passing boat to maintain a higher speed (and wake).  If the boat being passed either elects to maintain speed or fails to acknowledge the call (radio off), they leave themselves to the mercy of the passing boat.  In all cases, the passing boat is still responsible for collision avoidance and the effects of their wake.  Those boats that pass with no radio call and excessive wakes should be relegated to barrel riding over Niagara Falls for a week.

Eau Gallie Yacht Club

We entered port at Eau Gallie Yacht Club to a strong southeasterly wind and a fortifying current.  The dockmaster appeared professional and knowledgeable both during our communications prior to arrival and dockside as he managed Ivory Lady's dock lines.  Unfortunately, CA's desire for a starboard tie for Navigator to expedite a pump-out overrode his superior seamanship knowledge and he attempted to dock down wind and down current.  All might have worked except the knowledgeable dockmaster was on another pier with Ivory Lady and his assistant obviously had little experience and, as we found out later, was clinically deaf.  Following a couple of attempts and some rather loud exchanges between the Captain and the line handlers, Navigator finally got docked only to find out that the pump-out service was only available at another dock!  Needless to say, CA didn’t need a pump-out as badly as he thought.  The morale of the story is pay attention to the wind & current, forget the rest of the distractions and get the boat secured in the most safe and expeditious manner available.  The rest will work itself out.

Eau Gallie Yacht Club is a fabulous club that has great windowed layout, pool, tennis courts and they uphold visiting club protocols.  People are friendly and the Past Commodore and his wife made a point to greet us at dinner.  Food and service was excellent. We planned a 4 night stay to accommodate Easter visits to family and friends.

April 21 - Melbourne to Titusville

More traffic today than before Easter as predicted. However, not all residents of the Indian River Lagoon are snowbirds. A mother osprey had taken up residence on an ICW marker and was not deterred from feeding her young even as we passed so close (without calling her on the radio!). Even though a stiff wind out of the North, we enjoyed a clear, cool and comfortable day for cruising. The Indian River Lagoon is wide, has little or no tide nor tidal current and plenty of room to maneuver when passing. No bridges requiring opening today. After our pump-outs at Eau Gallie YC, it was an uneventful trip to Titusville and the NASA Railroad bridge where we planned to anchor for the night. 

The Kennedy Space center is an imposing sight from our anchorage. We are under the shadow of the Space Shuttle assembly building and launch gantries spiraling above the surrounding flora. Fortunately we are not close enough to see the rust and cobwebs accumulating on one of America’s greatest achievements, victim of politics and lack of true vision.  We sit and wonder how we ever descended to renters of Russian space technology when we Americans pioneered the exploration of space.  Have we finally lost our inspiration and desire to concur the next frontier? 

But we digress. Our anchorage is well protected from the north wind which is abating hourly as predicted, swaying to the rhythm of the sea and breathing the soothing air of the night.  A good night's sleep under the stars and with all hatches open is predicted.

 

April 15-16 Stuart/Hutchinson Island to Vero Beach

While the fuel prices and location were both attractive, the Marriott Hutchinson Island "resort" was a bit disappointing.  Regardless, we had a wonderful evening in Stuart and even the rain that drove us off the flybridge of Navigator could not daunt our spirits and the enjoyment of meeting new friends and connecting with MYC members!  CA shared two lessons -- 1) About buddy cruising --  If you are not the lead boat in the flotilla and you decide to "run-um-up" - stay close.  Navigator was behind Ivory Lady and by the time she got on plane at 18.5kts, Ivory Lady’s wake was reverberating off the sea walls from both sides of the channel.  Even a 50’ vessel can have a real wild ride when being battered by multiple irregular 2’ waves.  2) Upon righting the vessel, a check of the vessel for loose debris below allowed them to pat themselves on the back for squaring away the vessel before departure – second lesson.

The morning dawned sunny, a quick stop at the fuel dock for Navigator and we were off for a morning run to Vero Beach and the Moorings Yacht & Country Club.  The Four Amigos have enjoyed this location before, but it was a first for CA & PC by boat.  Navigator draws a bit more than Ivory Lady, so the knowledge that the channel has been dredged since our last visit was good news for all.   We entered the long Indian River, which is really not a river but a large lagoon ("a stretch of salt water separated from the sea by a low sandbank or coral reef") which stretches 150 miles and encompasses approximately 40% of the Eastern Coast of ICW. 

The lagoon has wide expanses, 65' bridges and many 25 mph speed zones.  The signage along the ICW can be confusing at best, with many calls for "manatee zone" of which we have not seen a single one!  Whether it is a ploy for revenue generation (either it takes you so long to travel that you spend more nights along the way or speeding) or residential preference, it certainly keeps you on your toes.  And then, each sign is different - some more than a little confusing with lots of small print and directives.  The sign here makes one question when it would NOT be a Manatee Zone @ 25 MPH?!?

We arrived at the Moorings with warm winds & bright sunshine.  We were unable to raise the "dockmaster" (he had his radio off) and after having re-confirmed our reservations several times, he had us arriving the next day.   We hope he is more competent in his role as maintenance man than as dockmaster, as communications, slip assignments, required dockage length and line handling are not his skillset.  He took his paint cans and left -- without completing the securing of dock lines or power cords.  But, we saved some $$ on tip money!

We spent a delightful afternoon in town, secured a rental car for our adventures the next day and dined aboard Ivory Lady.  During the night, the projected cold front arrived - dropped the temperature from 90 to 60 the next morning.

Undaunted, The Four Amigos pointed the rental car south on A1A to the National Navy UDT-Seal Museum on the south end of the barrier island just north of Ft. Pierce Inlet.  What a wonderful morning and a fabulous tribute to these men who commit their lives for our Freedom!  The UDT (Underwater Demolition Teams) were established by Franklin Roosevelt in 1943 following a disastrous attack on Tarawa Island in Pacific Theatre.  Unknown currents and obstructions resulted in the Marines being forced to begin their assault on the island some 3 miles out and swim to shore. 

Of course, many lost their lives before they even had an opportunity to address the enemy.  Ft. Pierce Inlet was selected as the site to train these teams to deal with natural and man-made obstructions so that future assaults could be more effectively executed.  As horrific as both Omaha Beach & Utah Beach in Normandy were for our American troops, it is inconceivable that the Allied Forces could even have come ashore without the brave commitments of the UDT forces.  In 1962, President Kennedy expanded the scope of these Special Forces to include Sea-Air-Land and created what we know today as Navy Seals.

Those of you that know CA & PC can imagine how special this museum was for them -- and for CB & AJ to share it with them!

After the museum, we toured "old Ft. Pierce" and had a delightful lunch on the beach (all the eisenglas was down to protect from the winds).  AJ & PC enjoyed a trip to the Spa at the Moorings in the afternoon while the boys returned the rental car!  A delightful evening at the Club was made even more special with Jim & Helen Dodds joining us.  Great friends from CB/AJ years in Greenville SC!

Tomorrow we're off to Eau Gallie YC in Melbourne!

April 13 & 14 Coral Ridge/Ft Lauderdale to Stuart (the unaBRIDGEd version)

Sunday morning dawned rainy & dreary - with a promise of winds of 15-25 mph by the time we would reach our planned anchorage in Lantana. Being prudent yachtsmen and not savoring the thought of a sleepless night watching an anchor, we elected to push harder and dock at Lake Park Harbor Marina on the northwestern border of Lake Worth.  It would be a long day considering the distance (40 NM), number of no wake zones, and 19 bridges of which we required 8 to be opened.  We were not disappointed - 7 hours of cruising.  We learned a lot about East Coast bridge etiquette, which is different than the West Coast of Florida.  Coast Guard regulations require that every vessel approaching a bascule bridge must contact the bridge tender and provide him/her the name of the vessel and whether an opening is required.  The bridge tender will then acknowledge you and, if you have requested an opening, will inform you of the next opening time or in the case of an "opening on demand bridge" begin the opening process.  That procedure is usually followed on the West Coast.  Due to the number of bridges and the constant traffic on the East Coast, no notice is given to a bridge tender unless you require an opening, but if you do, make sure you request it well before their scheduled opening.  We heard many frustrated bridge tenders scold other boats for requesting late openings.  Also, do not block the channel waiting for the opening as many boats do not need an opening and you just make their passing more difficult.  Navigator had a close call with a sailboat blocking their passage, which made for an exciting few moments. Finally, do not enter the area of the bridge structure, including the wooden channel structure, until the bridge is completely open.  Bridge Tenders are generally nice folks but don’t get crosswise with them. They have the ability to fine you for your violations!

It was truly a day of bridges and as we approached Palm Beach, they got prettier!

Take note of the Marathon Yacht Club burgee and the AGLCA burgee proudly flying on the bow of Ivory Lady.

I

Now take note that the burgees & flagstaff are missing!  Chinese stainless at its finest - with 20 knot winds and four years, the flagstaff broke at the mount. Fortunately, CB immediately called for assistance & AJ was able to retrieve burgees & staff!  Now just another trip to our favorite store - West Marine!

At the end of a long day, what you wish for are friendly & knowledgeable dock-hands. Such was not the case this time, as the hapless dock-hand had obviously never handled a line before or understood how to take instruction from the captain & crew of the vessel.  With the wind blowing hard from the east, docking was interesting enough without an inept line handler.  For the record, Lake Park Marina is a fairly protected marina with new floating docks and all the services required.  Just be sure to request a slip close to the Dockhouse - we didn't, so the walk would have been a healthy one!

Navigator coming under Indiantown Bridge

Off again by 0900 to a much easier day.  Our destination is Stuart with 25 NM, sunny skies and gentle breezes!  Cruising remains around 6-8 kph, with many minimal wake zones, but what's the hurry anyway! As we cruised through Jupiter, CB & AJ had wonderful memories of the first trip down the East Coast aboard Golden Dawn in 1990, with Uncle Bun & Georgia waving at us as we passed under the Indiantown Bridge in Jupiter. This year, Navigator is seen coming under the bridge.

A favorite landmark at Jupiter Inlet with the fabulous lighthouse!

As we traversed north of Jupiter, the landscape changed dramatically.  From mega-houses & mega-yachts to Hobe Sound National Wildlife Preserve.

Then we broke into Port Saint Lucie Inlet and had to make the decision whether to turn left, go through Lake Okeechobee and return to Marathon - completing the "Little Loop" or continue on our journey northward. All agreed to press on! We docked about 1300, cleaned the vessels and prepared for guests this evening.  PC & CA's friends, George & Cathy and CB & AJ's friends from Marathon, Rich & Eileen Dugan.

April 9 - 12 Miami thru Ft. Lauderdale

After a glorious 25th Anniversary evening, we departed Coral Reef for Ft. Lauderdale in some pretty stiff winds. We passed under 15 bridges while adhering to some rather unusual speed zone signs - "Idle speed in ICW Slow Speed Out of the ICW and 25MPH in the ICW Wake no higher than 15".  It was hell trying to keep the tape measures out of the water while hanging over the stern measuring the wake - not! 

Mariner II

The amount of wealth evident in the mega-houses and mega-yachts is staggering.  Such a concentration of opulence is truly unbelievable.  That's not to say that they have good taste - but they certainly have the funds to do whatever ridiculous things they want to do! Among all the huge zillion dollar yachts was one that caught CB's eye. Mariner II is the way to travel the coast in style!

The addition of AIS to both our vessels has provided great tools that we used for the first time.  One is being able to resolve the issue of "inquiring minds want to know", as most of the mega-yachts were identified and we could even see which ones are for sale!  Secondly, and more important, we COULD have used it when attempting to pass a large work boat being handled by two tugs - but, alas, we must first remember that we HAVE the system and then they have to answer your radio requests! Fortunately, as we needed to pass, they turned off the ICW and all was well. Then, as we approached Port Everglades, CB (Commodore Bill) was able to determine that the huge Chiquita Banana freighter was arriving in port rather than departing, making the passage for all safer and with much less stress.

Arrival at Lauderdale Yacht Club was uneventful with 100' of transient seawall dockage - and the only friendly person we met at LYC!  The atmosphere at the club was, to be kind, stuffy.  Food was average and the facilities wanting and dirty.  They made no formal acknowledgement of visiting Yacht Clubs standard at other Clubs and travel to anything in town required some distance.  Undaunted, we welcomed Judy Ambury who kindly provided a car for our use and joined us for dinner at Franco & Vinnie's Pizza Parlor (a favorite of AJ (Admiral Jann)).  

After a day of "rest & shopping" what a treat it was to move on to Coral Ridge YC, a strenuous 2 mile journey and be greeted by friendly staff & members.  CB & AJ took off immediately for a road trip to Anna Maria Island to be with family and a Celebration of Life for dear cousin, Trudy Horigan. PC (Pricness Caryn) & CA (Captain America) enjoyed the Club and their view, even with significant water & wave traffic.  Family night by the pool, complete with movies and laughter, was delightful. The perfect end to the first week of our Great Adventure!

April 5-7 - Marathon Yacht Club to Miami

April 5     
     The day had come to pop the dock lines and begin our quest for exploration.  Now which route to take?  The outside course out Channel Five through Hawks channel to Miami is deep and well protected by an ocean reef but you’d miss the life of the Everglades National Park, the challenges of the Florida Bay, as well as, the beauty of Biscayne Bay in its entirety.  So we decided to run the inside channel to be closer to the Keys’ many islands and their splendor.  
     We had a grand departure at 0900 before a send-off committee that consisted of the Club’s officer's in uniform standing at attention and what seemed like half the Club membership.  We had music to inspire, roses for a safe return, and a canon salute for a heart attack.  It was a grand finale to a "Marathon" farewell for the Commodore & Commodorable (Admiral Jann) that seemed to last a month. Unfortunately we made it about a quarter of a mile out of port when Ivory Lady sounded a port engine sea water flow alarm forcing them to return to the dock for repairs.  Fortunately, the send-off crowd had departed so embarrassment was held to a minimum!  Commodore Bill, in his email to all the participants, thanked them for their rose petal ceremony but acknowledged that he did not expect the safe return to be sooo soon!  
     Ivory Lady's problem was not serious (thank goodness for lots of spare parts aboard) and she was underway about an hour later. Meanwhile, Navigator continued on through beautiful clear waters not journeyed before and found a great mooring east of Shell Key at N24°55.438' W080°40.408' and tied to a mooring buoy at about 1300; Ivory Lady captured the last (4th) mooring ball when she arrived at 1445.  Shell Key is a small Key off of Upper Matecumbe Key, a part of the Lignumvitae State Park and near Islamorada.  A quick dive to clear the crab pots from Navigator's props followed by a leisurely swim by Princess Caryn and Captain America were a mere prologue to a wonderful day of relaxation and dinner aboard Navigator with the four amigos.  Cuban was the theme with Black Beans & Rice, a fabulous Columbia 1905 salad, a great Malbec from Argentina and of course cigars rolled by our favorite Cuban Master.  Finally, a quick dinghy ride to deposit the Commodore & Admiral back aboard Ivory Lady proved she (the dinghy) can handle the night.

April 6
     Mooring balls are so secure and worry-free, a good night's sleep was our reward. Our travels this day took us through some very skinny water in Florida Bay, but the dolphins playing in our wake, the gin clear water and countless other wildlife species made it all worthwhile. We entered Card Sound and found our anchorage in the lee of Pumpkin Key. Pumpkin Key is just west of Angler's Club and the ritzy Ocean Reef community.

Navigator at Pumpkin Key sunset

     Anchors set, we enjoyed a swim and were joined by our other 2 amigos for fish tacos aboard Ivory Lady. Discussion centered on the fact that Pumpkin Key was for sale for $110M. A dinghy ride around the key didn't reveal much of anything that would be worth that kind of money! We discussed an offer of about 5M, but decided that the cruising life was for us. So why bother?  Let's see, buy the view - $110M; see the view from our boat - priceless! 

April 7
     As we didn't need to leave early, we enjoyed home cured salmon for breakfast before weighing anchor. Before we could do so, Ivory Lady seems to have decided that it was time to depart as she suddenly dragged anchor about a hundred yards after good holding all night. Thankfully, we had no obstructions astern and we suffered only an unexpected early start.  We cruised only about 25 miles to arrive at Coral Reef Yacht Club in Miami after 1400 hours. Beautifully clear water in Biscayne Bay as we ran downwind revealed so many colors of bottom. As we neared Miami, we passed the few remaining structures in "Stiltsville" just south of Key Biscayne. Stiltsville is a community of houses built on stilts just beyond the jurisdiction of the Miami authorities in the 20’s and 30’s that allowed for a free spirited anti-authority populace to exist in the United States.  Only seven structures remain today with colorful histories as gentlemen’s clubs, bars, fishing camps, boating clubs and much more.
     After successfully finding the correct channel into Coral Reef, we were unable to contact the dockmaster for docking instructions. We nosed around all of the club's docks in about 25 knots of east wind before a member was able to contact the new dockmaster who finally appeared to show us our slips. Coral Reef is in Coconut Grove so we looked forward to some good provisioning at Fresh Market only two blocks away and a nice walk and shopping in the "Grove". Sadly, while this campy little area of shops and boutiques was once the hottest districts, many of the retailers and good dining spots have migrated to South Beach which is today's hot venue. Still, we were able to find a good dinner at LuLu's and a new watch (silver) for the Commodore and Admiral's 25th wedding anniversary. 

Celebrating 25 wonderful years!

     We stayed in port another day as a stormy cold front was approaching. Commodore Bill & Admiral Jann were treated to a wonderful anniversary dinner aboard Navigator prepared by Princess Caryn & Captain America. Perhaps a little more celebrating than was prudent given a planned early departure the next morning.
     We noted in the ship's log tonight that we have traveled over 100 nautical miles since departure. Only about 6000 to go!

The Foundation of the Great Adventure!

Navigator

Ivory Lady

A little background for those who have not been in the "Loop" about our upcoming adventure.

The cast of characters:

"Ivory Lady" - a 43 foot fast trawler
"Navigator" - a 48 foot motor yacht
Admiral Jann - one of the four amigos
Commodore Bill - one of the four amigos
Princess Caryn - one of the four amigos
Captain America - one of the four amigos


The Adventure:

     Circumnavigate the Eastern half of the United States by boat. This route is known as America's Great Loop, and is the genesis of the name of our chronicle. The route includes the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, the Chesapeake Bay, the New York and Canadian canal systems, the Great Lakes, the mighty rivers of our heartland, the Tennessee/Tom Bigbee Waterway and finally the Gulf of Mexico.

Prologue:

     About 7 years ago, the Admiral and the Commodore began dreaming about "Doing the Loop". During that time, we were cruising the West coast of Florida with our good friends from the Tampa Bay area and the idea rubbed off on the Princess and the Captain. About 4 years ago, we began to collectively get serious about really accomplishing this adventure and recognized the changes needed in our life styles to make it possible. Selling houses, selling boats and buying more appropriate cruisers, and retiring from long and fruitful careers were all necessary if we were to undertake a couple of years of cruising and living aboard.
     By January, 2014, the stars aligned and with the end of the Commodore and Admiral's responsibilities at the Marathon Yacht Club, the plans became reality. Navigator and two of the amigos left Tampa Bay in February and joined Ivory Lady and other two amigos at the Marathon Yacht Club in the Florida Keys. The month of March was spent fine tuning the boats and provisioning for the trip. Lots of farewells and good wishes (and free drinks) were provided by the members (read friends) of the Club for that entire month, making the departure a bit sorrowful, but depart we did! Stay tuned for the ongoing chronicle of our amigos getting on the "Loop".
     To find out more about the "Great Loop", click on the link to www.greatloop.org.