May 14 - May 18 Hilton Head Island to Charleston

We departed Savannah on a slack tide and moderate winds, which made the winding journey through the backwaters of South Carolina most enjoyable except for the Diptera: Simuliidae – man-eating black flies.  Fortunately, both vessels were armed us with the creature sapper, an electrified fly swatter.  That and the headwind help to keep them at bay. 

With a "strenuous" day of 24 miles, we arrived before lunch to the welcoming site of Harbortown Yacht Basin, with its own lighthouse and protected harbor.  It's a lovely spot that reminds one of Portofino Italy with its circular basin and colorful restaurants & shops lining the shore.  The dockmaster met us in a skiff to guide us in which was a first.  We later realized that if he didn’t use the skiff, his walk to the transit docks would equal a marathon’s distance by the end of the day.  Needless to say, we would travel that distance many times in the course of our stay.

Greeted with an efficient & pleasant dockmaster, a lovely bottle of wine, check-in at boatside (instead of the healthy walk around the basin), including all necessary information for an enjoyable stay (pool, shops, spa, restaurants), we (read PC & AJ) decided two nights just won't be enough!  As that matched well with storms projected for the third day, we all agreed to an additional night.  

T

Touted as one of the "most unique and beautiful places on earth" and after spending two full days walking, biking & running Sea Pines Plantation, we were inclined to agree!  The beautiful oak tress covering the estate are so thick they nearly block out the sun.  There are miles of bike & hiking trails, 4 manicured golf courses (including the PGA Heritage) and the remains of the old plantation on which the Resort was built.  You can spend days enjoying the beach, pool, tennis, golf, all variety of water sports and even sail on America II, Jimmy Connors winning boat in the Americas Cup.  It was certainly more than could be enjoyed during our brief visit.
Alas, Friday morning dawned clear and it was time to move on!  With a strong WNW wind, the captains had their hands full getting out of the dock and narrow basin - which they both handled skillfully.  We ran up Calibogue Sound along the western border of Hilton Head Island  The Island is 42 square miles with 12 miles of beaches on the Atlantic Ocean. Although 40% of the Island is water, its land mass still makes it the second largest barrier island in SC.  The deep-water creeks around Hilton Head and the prevalence of hardwoods made the island a popular place for shipbuilding during the early history of our Country.  In fact, Beaufort County, in which Hilton Head resides, was the largest shipbuilding area in the early colonies. Even today, when the USS Constitution, "Old Ironsides," was rebuilt in 1988, they used live oaks that were cleared to make room for Hilton Head Island's Causeway.

We crossed Port Royal Sound with rather heavy seas & opposing winds to the current and were glad to turn into Beaufort River, where the water turned Marine Green as we approached the heart of U.S. Marine Corps country.  Both Parris Island Recruit Depot and Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS) Beaufort are located within a stone through of the City of Beaufort SC.  Parris Island is the oldest USMC station in continuous use in the country.  The Marines occupied the former Naval coal-refueling Depot in 1891, first as a security detachment, then an officers’ training school, then a recruit depot.  MCAS Beauport, home of the Marine Air Group 31, was commissioned in June 1943 and contains 4 Squadrons of F/A-18.

While we had hoped to stay at the City Marina, they had yet to complete the promised electrical upgrades and low voltage is not a nice thing to do to our vessels.  As a result, we found another gem in the Lady's Island Marina located just north of the swing bridge and across the river from the Old Town Beaufort on Factory Creek.  Entry is interesting as you dodge all the anchored boats in the creek, but well worth the effort!   As we approached the dock, we were greeted with four or five line handlers; all local boaters congregating at the marina. The lead handler was a very friendly dockmaster, Steve, who apparently spends his life cruising from one marina to another offering his services to depressed marinas and turns them around.  He is doing a great job for Lady's Island Marina.  We were immediately invited to a burger and hot dog cookout with flowing beer, given all the insight on the local goings on, and provided a tour of their large workshop, which is free use to the marina boaters.  We found out later that most of the folks stop at the marina and then extend their stay as they use the facility for repairing whatever is ailing their boats - great find.  

We also met Peter, who has his boat at the Capital Yacht Club in Washington DC, so we will connect with him in early July.  But, another very small world experience - he spent this past winter on a smaller, trailer-able boat checking out "all" of the Florida Keys to make his decision about where he would spend next winter.  His decision - the same anchorage off Curry Hammock State Park were two sets of dear friends reside - Gordon & Joannie Younce aboard Blue Goose and right next door to Duke Martin & Cheryl Wilcox on land.  Thankfully, we were on the outside "T" dock - rather than these folks on the interior!  The Georgia coast has an amazing tidal shift vs the rest of the mid & south Atlantic coast!

Cannon overlooking Lady's Island Bridge

The town of Beaufort is a charming step back into the 1800s with its antebellum mansions, historic churches dating back to the early 1700s, wonderful downtown “boarding house” and hidden Five Star restaurant disguised as a quaint bistro serving a mouth-watering popover as a free appetizer.  We had an enjoyable bicycle into town (1.5 miles) and soon came to see Beaufort as a place to return to for a longer visit.  The guided tour (carriage drawn by Newman) was fabulous with the history and traditions of the old South.  The people were very friendly and the ambiance surrounding our entire visit made Beaufort one of our favorite stops thus far.

Sunday morning, May 18 found us off the docks early -- as early as the low tide would permit!  We wanted to make Charleston, which would be a long 58 NM day (about double or normal days).  The tides were mostly in our favor and fortunately, the South Carolina ICW is significantly "straighter" than Georgia.  For CB & AJ, it is a bit poignant as they lived on their waters 25 years ago when they married.

We made the turn out of Wappoo Creek (in Elliot Cut, we were fortunately running with the tide at 10+ knots at "slow" speed) and headed for the Charleston City Marina a few minutes for 3:00p. The City Marina is a very large complex that has been expanded several  times over the years, making it a sprawling and not such a pretty location.  It is, however, convenient for our upcoming two week stay with easy access to the peninsula and van service to everything we might need.  Docking with an energetic cross-current adding to the challenges, Ivory Lady & Navigator were glad to tied up for a bit.  

We're looking forward to visits with friends & family over the Memorial Day weekend. CA & PC will be joined by daughter & son-in-law.  CA & AJ will head to their cabin in the mountains for a few days.  Have a wonderful holiday everyone!

May 9 - 13 Savannah Yacht Club to Savannah

The Savannah Yacht Club is by far the largest and arguably the most beautiful Yacht Club we have seen.  Resting at the end of a long oak covered shell road, the complex consists of an impressive Clubhouse, two large pools, 11 Tennis Courts, a Sailing Center boat house, a Keeper’s (Manager) House, and acres of concrete floating docks.   Founded in 1869, it was originally known as “The Regatta Association of Chatham County.” In 1871, it was re- named “The Regatta Association of Georgia” and in 1875 the name was again changed to “The Savannah Yacht Club.” This Club was actually located in Thunderbolt about a mile up river from its current location.  In 1976, the Club officers decided to buy two large islands across the river and build a new Yacht Club on one of the Islands.  They maintain the other as a camping retreat for the members.  In 1996, the Club hosted the yachting events for the Atlanta Summer Olympics– no small undertaking!

Arrival was easy as the tide, winds and dockmaster were all in sync!  We had a pleasant tour of the Club (hence the history above!) and dinner there both nights.  The second night, there were again TWO Marathon Yacht Club burgees flying as George & Pat Hospodar (Great America Loop book authors) joined The Four Amigos on the outside dock.  They are, however, on a destination - getting home - rather than a journey, so it was a quick but delightful visit.  Southern hospitality abounds at the Club and the atmosphere was truly Southern antebellum.

As we left the dock on Saturday morning, May 10, the chartplotter indicate 4.6nm to our destination (but as the crow flies!).  As we motored up the Wilmington River, we actually got as close as 3.2nm before the distance began to open again and close and open until we entered the Savannah River at Mackey Pt.  Finally, we were heading directly for Savannah as we entered the river and completed our journey of 11.2nm.  

Where's the Tug?

As the Savannah River is a large shipping channel, we encountered massive container ships both while underway and at dockside.  We are still amazed that they allow these behemoths free navigation of the narrow river without even a safety tug! Our marina choice was the Westin where we were moored right on the river’s northern bank.  With Ivory Lady having been there before, there was knowledge that the north side is MUCH nicer than the south side, even though we were across the river from Old Town. Regardless, the size of the ships and their incessant need to blow their horns as they rounded the bend in the river (or entertain the tourists on land) along with their wakes (bow & stern) made for an interesting dockage location - especially as most of the container traffic seemed to be at night!  Although it tended to interrupt our slumber at times, the location and view we had was simply splendid.

Navigator & Ivory Lady moored at Savannah Westin

Being moored on the north side of the river required that we use a water ferry to reach historic Savannah, but as they were free & ran every 20 minutes, it just added to the enjoyment of this city.  The first day we continued with our normal plan of taking a trolley tour of the city then planning the next days' events based on the results.

Savannah’s original design comprised a series “wards”, each of which contained 8 blocks built in a square specifically designed around a park to allow for social interaction.  The commercial structures (trust lots) where east and west of the park with the residential houses (tything blocks) situated north and south of the park.  The trust lots were restricted to commercial activity for the first 50 years and then a few were released for residences. 

There were 24 of these “wards” built with 24 parks of which 22 remain today.  Many of the original buildings still exist, which added much flavor to the tour.  With buildings dating back to the Revolutionary War, Savannah is a history buff’s paradise. 

The design of the buildings facing the bank of the river was quite impressive as well - known as Factor's Row.  Factors were the brokers (primarily cotton) that negotiated sales and literally set the price worldwide for cotton.  The city’s elevation is actually about 2-3 stories above the river, so the large multi-story buildings provided 3-4 stories at street level for offices and 3-4 stories for warehousing and physical shipping activity.   The ramps & walkways connecting the river district to the city streets are cobblestone, brought by the ships as ballast and left for scrap as they loaded the ship with cotton, rice and indigo.

Rear of Owens-Thomas House

We ventured out early Sunday morning to the City Market and the very impressive Maritime Museum with its incredible model ship collection representing Savannah's history in shipping as well as defense through decades to WWII.  Lunch was quite enjoyable at Molly MacPherson’s Scottish Pub with an assortment of Scottish Whiskey that filled five pages of a Scotch List - the boys were happy and promised to return during our stay!  The docent at the Maritime Museum recommended a visit to the Owens-Thomas House, one of three house tours available in the city.  This English Regency style residence built in 1891 has been retained in essentially its original state, which is a requirement for a house tour. The architect, William Jay, was responsible for both the Museum Scarborough House and the Owens-Thomas House.  An Englishman, he was 24 when we designed this superb structures..  

Monday took us to the Mercer-Williams House. Constructed in 1860 for General Mercer (Great Grandfather of Johnny Mercer), it is one of the few homes built on the commercial trust lots and encompasses a complete block with addresses on two streets.  While the size, architecture, and antiques are amazing, it is the history from 1969 after Jim Williams purchased the home that made this house a landmark.  The book (and movie), “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” chronicled the murder of Danny Hansford by Williams in the study of the home.  Williams was tried four times for the murder, but the jury was never able to find him guilty of the crime.  The docent was extremely knowledgeable and you got the sense that she knew "Jim" and was clear in her description of the study, where Jim defended himself that fateful night!    

Another lesson learned - always ask the people working in these tourist areas for where THEY eat!  It found us Molly MacPherson's and the next day, the Crystal Beer Parlor!  We all agreed with this sign on the fireplace mantle!

Our final night in this gracious city found us at “The Olde Pink House” for dinner - supposedly Savannah’s only 18^th Century Mansion.  Built on land granted by the crown of England to his father, James Habersham Jr. lived in his plantation from 1771 to 1800. While his father was loyal to the Crown, James Jr was an active supporter of the Revolutionists and many meetings were held in the home to helped secure the independence of the 13 colonies from England. Food was superb, wait staff friendly and the house was an interesting collections of leftover architectural additions added by each subsequent owner; boarding house, brothel, bank.  We then returned to Molly’s (as promised) for a sip of Dalwhinnie (single malt scotch).

CB & AJ at the Olde Pink House

May 4 to May 8 - Jekyll Island & St. Simons Island to Savannah Yacht Club

After our days of clouds & rain, the day of our departure from our little haven was clear, cool and gorgeous!  We were all a bit sad to leave the tranquility of St Marys and vowed to return.  Where else in the world would you see a menu like this from the Shark Bite Restaurant - Mac & Cheese eight ways!  We continue to be amazed at all the people that "look down" on St Marys as a less than popular place to be!

Degausing Shed (demagnitizes Subs upon Return)

We cruised back out the St Marys River and turned right, heading north into Georgia territory.  One of the first sights is the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, which is "the employer" now for St Marys, as the paper mill is long gone.  Kings Bay was built during the Jimmy Carter years and those of us that lived in Charleston continue to see it as a highly political decision, as it was a major factor in moving jobs from Charleston Naval Station into Georgia.  Be that as it may, it is an impressive sight.  

It is a formidable series of Sub Hangars used to house and replenish our largest and most lethal submarines; the Intercontinental Ballistic Missile (ICBM) boats commonly referred to a Boomers.  We got a glimpse of two of the Boomers because the SALT Treaty (mid-1970s)  requires that we leave the bow of each Boomer protruding out of the hangars so the Russians can count them while they are in port.  We also saw an SSGN (Guided Missile Sub).  These are Boomers converted to carry cruise missiles (versus the ICBMs) and SEALs - something close to our hearts.  They have a dry deck shelter mounted on their deck to carry underwater SEAL Delivery Vehicles (SDV) and extra crew quarters available as the result of the removal of a number of the ICBM launch tubes.

We traveled most of the day with Cumberland Island to our starboard exiting into St. Andrews Sound just south of Jekyll Island; only one of four Georgia barrier Islands that can be reached by causeways.  The passing marshes and tree-lined coast were pristine except for an occasional structure that always seemed out of place.  We saw the occasional shrimp boat hauling its nets with the ever-present seagulls picking at the remains but this passage gave one a sense of seclusion far-removed from civilization. 

Our port of call was Jekyll Harbor Marina, located directly on the ICW.  As we approaching the marina, that sense of seclusion remained.  The docks where connected to the land but appeared to lead to nowhere.  Upon close scrutiny, there was a dockmaster's "shack", restaurant and pool hidden in the trees (a good distance from the docks).  We were on the Island that spawned the Creature of Jekyll Island but we would have to ride our bikes to appreciate its grandeur.

Crane "Cottage"

The island is woven with 20 miles of bicycle paths, through lush forests, wooden bridges and over vast marshlands.  Off we went to the historic Jekyll Island Club District.  The District, two hundred and forty acres of historic winter cottages, were built by America’s wealthiest men at the end of the 19^th and beginning of the 20^th centuries as a winter retreat for the wealthy.   The enormous Jekyll Island Club Hotel was their clubhouse where only the 100 of the country’s elite were allowed to join. The “Club Period”, as the locals refer to it, lasted from 1888 until 1942.  At that time, Franklin Roosevelt realized that every January Industrialists and Bankers, representing 1/6^th of the country’s wealth, congregated for the winter.  Considering it too good a target for German saboteurs, he closed the Club, after which it never reopened.  Purchased by the State of Georgia in 1947, it is now a well-manicured historical State Park.

We took a carriage ride tour of the estates and afterward had drinks at the famous Jekyll Club Hotel from which the creature of Jekyll Island emerged.  Not your typical evil monster of threatening qualities but rather a sinister monstrosity born of man – the Federal Reserve System (FRS). Not a Government entity at all, the FRS is the world’s most powerful financial institution controlling trillions of dollars of America’s money.  None of the FRS officials are elected by the People of American and its decisions do not have to be ratified by anyone in the executive, judicial or legislative branches of government. Yet in 2008, this institution loaned European banks $16 trillion dollars of US money - enough to pay-off our country's debt (at that time!).  How can this be?  The FED is a private corporation owned by the banks with no Government affiliation or oversight.  Yet because they have banded together into a single entity (analogous to a monopoly), they control the flow of all US banking dollars and exercise this authority at their whim – scary right?

The Jekyll Island Club was the location where Senator Nelson Aldrich, Asst Secretary of the US Treasury A. Piatt Andrew and five of the country's leading financiers  (Frank Vanderlip, Henry P. Davison, Charles D. Norton, Benjamin Strong & Paul Warburg) gathered in 1902 to discuss the banking system, which ultimately developed into the Federal Reserve System.  Was it a mere coincidence that the meeting was held at the Club of America’s richest?  

We enjoyed a libation (or two) at the gorgeous Lobby Bar of the Clubhouse and then bicycled over to the Crane Cottage (Crane of plumbing fame) for a light dinner in the Courtyard.

We left Jekyll Island early the next morning headed for the best priced diesel on the southeast coast at Ocean Petroleum in Brunswick GA.  New to both boating couples, we could only imagine what an industrial refueling dock such as Ocean Petroleum would entail; we were not disappointed.  We approached the flimsy floating dock with no apparent refueling hoses and absent any dockmaster or personnel of any kind.  After we secured our boats by ourselves, down walked a rather lovely-looking young lady in skintight pants & blouse and sporting high heels.  Much to our surprise, she unlocked the refueling locker and pulled out the refueling hose and refueled our two boats.  This is American entrepreneurial spirit at its best!  What self-respecting Shrimp Boat Captain needing a couple of thousand gallons of fuel wouldn’t want to spend the morning with this lovely lady - only in Georgia! 

We proceeded on to St. Simons Island and Morningstar Marina.  Arriving on an incoming tide and an opposing wind, but both Captains overcame the challenges (including the dockmaster) and brought the vessels safely into dock. This marina has lots of memories for CB & AJ, as Cousin John & Trudy were with us four years ago on Ivory Lady's first journey to Charleston.  It's a lovely floating dock marina, but head & shower facilities are so far away, you need a 50-power set of binoculars to see them.  What is it with Georgia Marinas that make them think facilities need to be at least a football field or two away from the docks? 

St. Simons Island is the largest of Georgia's Barrier Islands and boasts a causeway, airport and a lighthouse built in the early 1800s.  The original lighthouse (built in 1810) was destroyed by Confederate soldiers in 1862 as they departed the island so that the Union forces couldn't use it as an aid to navigation.  The current Lighthouse and Keeper's Dwelling was built in 1872 and continues to provide navigational aid to seamen with a fresnel light that can be seen close to 25 miles out to sea.  There are 129 steps to the top - CB & AJ enjoyed the climb and the view it provided of the surrounding area.

View from the Top of the St. Simons Lighthouse

The town has a large collections of art & clothing stores in the historic quarter, which could take all day to visit - just ask PC & AJ!  The island also lays witness to country clubs and estates that suggests prosperity and affluence.  However, under its swaying moss drooping from oak canopies, this island also exudes a charming and unhurried existence.   Certainly a place that deserves more than a two-day stop – perhaps on the next voyage.

Along our journeys, we encounter many words of wisdom and a few signs that MAKE you read them!  This was on the property immediately beside the Keeper's Dwelling - which speaks to the challenges they must have with so many visitors each year!

We timed our departure from St. Simons on Wednesday, May 8 to insure we would be at Little Mud River at least a mid-tide and rising tide. Our plan was to anchor out at Crescent River about 30nm north of St. Simons, but as we traveled north, the Georgia flying pests were getting bigger and more vexing.  The thought of having to share an anchorage with them at night was rather disheartening so we decided to press-on to Kilkenny Creek and the infamous Kilkenny Marina. 

If you’ll recall our previous entries, the Georgia ICW is a collection of rivers winding through the monotonous flat marshlands imitating the movement of a snake.  For every mile we moved towards our destination, we moved two miles sideways making our decision to proceed onto Kilkenny a rather lengthy (and boring to some) endeavor.  We had discussed the potential for going "off shore" and head straight north to Savannah, but the appeal of the coastline prevailed.  However, in reflection, this would have been the day to "press-on" with a 70 mile off-shore experience!  

Kilkenny, however, is as interesting a marina as you will ever find.  Nestled under the majestic oaks of the Kilkenny plantation, the marina consists of a single wooden dock that rocks side-to-side under each step one takes.  The cleats used to secure one’s boat are a series of 2’x4’ boards nailed to the side of the dock.  To connect the dock to land, which at times is 12 feet above the water, a wooden ramp makes you question whether it can sustain the weight of more than a single “small” individual at a time.  The head and shower facilities appears to be a single out house, again some distance away from the boats and at night you are serenaded by the sounds of falling water as they pump out their bait wells all night long. 

Navigator at Kilkenny Marina (note ramp & deckboards)

 We asked to get off the beaten cruising path and we got our wish.  This marina is a once in a lifetime experience - except CB & AJ have done it before!  Ivory Lady & Navigator had been docked about 30 minutes, when around the bend came a very large vessel that was going to consume all the remaining available dockage.  As they snugged onto the dock, we were amazed to see another Marathon Yacht Club burgee on their bow!  There was Tony McKissick, Sally Ann & crew - what a nice surprise!

The morning dawned with a breathtaking sunrise over the marsh.  Departure was again timed to deal with Hell's Gate, which was approx 10 NM to our north.  PC & AJ captained the vessels as we departed the marina and CA & CB handled the lines.  It was a easy 25 NM journey, arriving at Savannah Yacht Club in the early afternoon.  Greeted by able dockmaster & assistant, we were nestled in for a couple of days. Savannah Yacht Club was the sight of the 1996 Olympics for Sailing and an amazing Club it is!  We'll look forward to touring the Club, enjoying its amenities and visiting with friends for the next couple of days!

April 30 - May 3 Fernandina Beach FL to St Marys GA

We all checked our passports and had them in the ready -- as we departed Florida waters for the South Georgia coast.  The forecast for high winds and drenching rain, along with the desire to "get off the beaten path" had us charting a course for the quaint town of St Marys, GA.  It was a strenuous 8 mile journey from Fernandina Beach up the St. Marys GA.  Navigator chose to depart the marina and exit St Marys Inlet for a peak at the coastline from the Atlantic.  Ivory Lady cruised up the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) and connected with Navigator - and both captains closely watched the Coast Guard vessel and helicopter to see if a boarding incident was about to occur!  Fortunately, they were only doing maneuvers and we didn't look suspicious enough!

Many boaters who travel to this town may be disappointed by a marina whose dockmaster is four blocks away from the slips or a town with only one real bar or a collection of derelict boats that would rival Dog River Alabama, but for us, St. Marys is a refreshing break from the tourist-absorbed conventional city that typically surrounds a marina. The sunsets are spectacular!

Here in St Marys, you find people who defy convention.  Witness the spelling of its name (no apostrophe) or its magnificent park with flowing fountains in a town of only a few thousand people or the two large buoys in its harbor capable of mooring a cruise ship that never comes.  Their Yacht Club is completely housed in a single houseboat whose members willingly offer to chauffeur you wherever you would like to go.  Their restaurant makes all their own sauces, dressings, and condiments yet charges an average of $15 for their entrees.  Their downtown consists of one street three blocks long yet it is home to five restaurants, two ferry terminals, two marinas and a park with an amphitheater where the “Friends of the Waterfront” perform.  It is obvious the people of St Marys emanate a unique outlook on life.

And if you think the sunsets are amazing - the sunrise can take our breath away!  We spent four lovely days as a storms raged around the country and around us - but although we had some rain, it couldn't dampen our spirits or our enjoyment!  We truly found gem a in the rough here in St. Marys and as the gateway to Cumberland Island National Seashore, we hoped the ferry and enjoyed the history, wild horses, bobcats, wild boar and all manner of birds.  

Our bodies & souls refreshed - we'll set out on Sunday for points north.