June 8 - 16 Wrightsville Beach NC to Portsmouth VA

Sunset @ Seapath Marina in Wrightsville Beach

If you're going to get "stuck" somewhere, it's wonderful to be in a delightful place and good access to the services (read repairs!) you need. The diver arrived on Saturday afternoon, arranged for Navigator's props to be worked on over the weekend and returned Monday afternoon, as promised, with the props looking like new! During our stay, we took advantage of Seapath's courtesy car several times for provisions of every type (groceries, hardware, AT&T and more!) On Saturday evening, we had a delightful anniversary celebration at Terrazo - a lovely Italian Bistro recommended by our dockmaster. Given that PC & CA have spent two anniversaries (30 & 35) in Italy and that it is favorite for all of us - it seemed providential to dine there to celebrate 41!















Tuesday morning dawned early with a 6:40am departure - we still had 70 nm of shoaling, narrow waterways and confusingly marked channels to contend with that day, as well as areas that the military can close for hours. This time, we were armed with “Active Captain” alerts on our mobile devices - technology is amazing. The journey turned into a day of recollection for CA and many unexpected highlights.







Between Wrightsville Beach and Beaufort/Morehead City lies Marine Country - Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS) New River, home of the MV-22 Osprey, Marine Corps Base Camp Lejeune, home of the USMC’s 1st Division, and Marine Corps Auxiliary Airfield Bogue Field, where the Harriers from MCAS Cherry Point often do their carrier qualifications. As CA had spent much time in all these locations, the journey was filled with many good memories that ware a joy for him to share with the Amigos.







After verifying with the Duty Officer when the ICW was to be closed (phone numbers are published for all mariners to do so), we hustled to make the window. As we passed old military vehicles on the banks of the ICW used as targets for artillery practices, we could see and feel artillery practicing to our port, which rattled our boats. As we mused that perhaps we had entered the firing line inadvertently, we heard calls from a Naval Warship doing offshore gunnery practice.





































Needless to say, a few extra RPMs on the engines was appropriate. When we finally thought we were clear of the action, an MV-22 Osprey made two fly-bys of our boats and did a vertical landing on Onslow Beach just to our stern.





































We quickly proceeded out of harms way only to be rewarded with front row seats to a couple of AV-8 Harriers performing carrier practice at Bogue Field. We could not have had a better show if CA had tried!











After nine hours of cruising, we finally arrived at the Morehead City Yacht Basin, which turned out to be well protected and quite nice, if a bit industrial. We had been unable to get into the Beaufort City Marina due to the annual Blue Marlin Tournament. This tournament attracts hundreds of large sport fishing boats and costs each boat about $35K after fuel, dockage, entry fee, and living for four days. Winning all categories can net you $1,000,000 but few win even one event!











We visited both Beaufort and Morehead City riverfront, which had not changed much since CA & PC had been stationed near by some 30 years ago. We ate at one of their old hangouts, “Clawsons”, and visited the Maritime Museum. The museum is quite impressive with its boat history and actual boathouse where they build and refurbish wooden boats. A trip to MCAS Cherry Point gave PC the opportunity to show the area to AJ and share the nostalgia of years stationed there -- PC was disappointed that her old house was so small! We finished off the stay with a tamale dinner courtesy of CA & PC's Kids who had them shipped from Texas - originally for the Anniversary Dinner, but was most enjoyable a few days later!























Thursday morning, we cruised the Newport River, through Adams Creek and into the Neuse River. Again a travel down memory lane for CA & PC from their early days based in the area. The Neuse River provides a great sailing venue and, with its 248 miles all contained within North Carolina it is the longest river in the State. Here again, industry competes with recreation, as shrimp boats wreak havoc upon sailing races as they drag their nets wherever their hearts desire with no consideration for other boaters, even in the narrow passages of the ICW.















Just past Oriental, we entered Broad Creek for our dockage at River Dunes Marina. This is a extraordinary planned community with evidence that it's making progress toward a fully functioning resort. If anyone has perused any real estate magazines, you will have seen marketing materials for the Oriental NC area - close access to the Atlantic and relatively inexpensive real estate costs.



















The facility boasts a clubhouse, pool with enclosed cabanas, fitness center & 2 jacuzzis. The clubhouse is elegant with a library, meeting area, and a bar/restaurant upstairs. Unfortunately, the restaurant is only operational on weekends, so after a dip in the pool for some (CB & AJ) and boat maintenance for others (CA), we took advantage of the courtesy car for a trip into Oriental for dinner. While once this might have been a vibrant fishing/shrimping center, it is now rundown and sad.



















We were off again early on Friday. The Neuse River with its quartering swells made the ride resemble the mechanical bull ride at Billy Bob’s Texas Steak House. A turn up the Bay River provided smoother waters and CA pointed out bombing ranges he & his squadron used as Harrier pilots. One in particular, the Ship Target, sets well out into the Pamlico Sound. This target was strafed for an entire day by CA's squadron only to find out later that a fishing boat had sunk that morning and the crew had sought refuge on the target ship. As expected, the squadron received a lot of heckling after the crew was rescued without a scratch on them except, of course, for frayed nerves!































Our day ended at Dowry Creek, a peaceful marina nestled in a woodland of pines and marshlands of the Pungo River. When you meet Mary, the marina owner, you get a sense that she keeps Dowry Creek going for more than just her livelihood. Her daily “Happy Hours” in the Captain’s Lounge and large rocking chairs on the porch convey Mary’s aptitude for socializing. After all, with only the small town of Belhaven some seven miles away, what better way to stay connected with civilization then to cater to boaters who themselves tend to be social.



















Off again early (are you seeing a pattern!?), we traversed the Alligator River-Pungo River Canal, a 20nm stretch of the ICW. With forests right to each riverbank, it gives one the sensation of being in a narrow & straight tunnel, albeit a picturesque tunnel. The forests were dense and possessed stretches where the dreaded kudzo had completely covered the trees giving it the appearance of a toothed quilt. In this 20 nm stretch, we encountered only three vessels - everything was quiet and peaceful.























We emerged from the canal and into the wide expanse of Alligator River, watching diligently for any sign of alligators – no luck. The Alligator River is surrounded by a national wildlife refuge and one of the last remaining strongholds for the black bear on the Eastern Seaboard; again, no sightings.























As we approached the Alligator River Swing Bridge, the accommodating bridge tender began his opening process when we were still almost a mile from the bridge. Given the amount of traffic we had seen on the water, we could only assume he was bored! Given that this bridge is Route 64 and the access to the southern islands of the Outer Banks, we decided to increase our speed (not advised by USCG) to reduce the wait-time for the automobiles (20 minutes) and reduce our chances of our becoming victims of road rage.



























































Navigator Leaving "The Gas Station"















Immediately north of the bridge, we turned west to Alligator River Marina, which should be named Gas Station Marina! It was simply a Shell Gas Station on a busy highway whose claim to fame is the best chicken dinner in North Carolina (if you like eating at a gas station). The dockmaster is the gas station attendant and maybe the cook!







































Look closely for the Rabbits!



































Fortunately, both Ivory Lady & Navigator are totally self-supporting, so we did not need to use any facilities; the docking was easy, the harbor protected and the wasp nests in the power pedestals did not attack CB!. The one delight was waking at sunrise and seeing the lawn filled with rabbits having their breakfast.















































































We left early to beat the increasing winds of the late afternoon and hopefully arrive at Coinjock Marina before the crowd and get a berth close to the Restaurant, even though it was to be a "short day" of some 30 miles.







































Sunrise over Albemarle South















Albemarle Sound is a sizeable body of brackish (between fresh & salt) water separated from the Atlantic by the North Carolina’s Outer Banks on which rests Kitty Hawk, Nags Head, and the less famous Kill Devil Hills. Unknown to many, Kill Devil Hills is actually the sight of the Wrights Brother's famous flight. The name was not politically correct in 1903, so Kitty Hawk became famous. Mistakenly, Kill Devil Hills gained its name not from killings or even the Devil but from the fact that locals would strip shipwrecks of their cargo and hide the rum in the dunes adjacent to their settlement. Rum in the 1700s was commonly referred to as “Kill Devil”.























The crossing was fairly calm after the first 30-45 minutes. We had seen little boat traffic again that day, yet after we docked, the 1200' of dock space quickly filled with no less than a cruise liner, 6-8 mega yachts, 3-4 large sailboats and our two boats. As has happened to us all during the course of this trip, memory lane is a great trip - and we are surprised by things being so different that we recall. Coinjock Marina was the first stop for CB & AJ aboard their first boat, Golden Dawn, when they purchased her in Annapolis and took her to Charleston to be their first home in 1988. Having cruised overnight, all day and finally arriving in the cold and dark in late November, it had been a very welcome site. Pleasant again this time, but much more developed that they remembered, including a restaurant featuring a 16-ounce or 32-ounce prime rib. It was Father's Day and the restaurant was packed - but we had wisely made reservations and enjoyed the experience.



































Monday morning - yes, another early departure (6:15a) - would take us 43 nm to the end of the AICW (Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway). With all of the vessels at the marina, the trip was more like what CB had been promising for several weeks - a super-highway of boats passing each other on a race to "somewhere". We crossed Currituck Sound, with miles of water 2' deep and a narrow channel that was not nearly as imposing in daylight as AJ had remembered from 26 years ago. However, with mega-yachts passing us and us passing sailboats, there was a lot of jockeying for position - but everyone was courteous and exercised good yachting & communication skills.











































As we approached Hampton Roads (Norfolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth), the bridge schedules became very important - and we met up with many of the large vessels that had screamed past us earlier. One wonders why they spend all the $ on fuel only to hold in place for an hour until the bridge opens!















































































At MM 11, we encountered the Great Bridge and Great Bridge Lock - the first of over a hundred we will do in the course of the Great Loop. CB kept wondering - if we started at sea-level at Coinjock (that morning) and ended at sea-level at Portsmouth (that night) - why was a lock necessary?







































































































Regardless, through it we must go - with the river cruise ship, 3 mega yachts, Next Chapter & Ivory Lady. Unfortunately, the sun was hot and the going was slow - but we made it without issue and cruised our way into Tidewater Yacht Basin at Atlantic Intra-coastal mile marker 0!!



















































































Tired & hot, we were none-the-less proud of this accomplishment! Ivory Lady & Navigator left Marathon on April 5 at Mile Marker 1195 - and, of course, Navigator had already done the mileage from St. Pete to Marathon a month earlier. So, here we are - thankful we're here safe, filled with memories of the Intracoastal Waterway, and anxious to launch the next phase - exploring the history and beautiful of the Chesapeake Bay.

May 31 - June 7 Charleston to Wrightsville Beach NC

Ivory Lady departing the City Marina

Our two weeks flew by and we departed Charleston early Saturday morning with gloomy & overcast skies.  Navigator took the lead for this portion of the trip - and Ivory Lady followed in her wake. Charleston harbor was relatively quiet for a Saturday, thanks to the weather and early departure time.  Regardless, we had to dodge a barge towing what seemed like a mile of pipe.  

Navigator approaching Ben Sawyer Bridge
(you saw this in the prior blog - they did go through the correct side!)

We then headed up the ICW sharing memories of Hurricane Hugo and the bridge-tender on the Ben Sawyer Bridge - it was reportedly a wild ride for him that night as the bridge spun around & around!

Our destination was Georgetown SC, making it a longer day than normal. We cruised past waterside Southern mansions, along civil war historical dwellings and into the endless miles of coastal islands with their multitude of boat docks that dictated idle speed for a good portion of the trip. As we turned into Winyah Bay we pushed the power up to beat the arrival of a threatening thunderstorm, which we did and arrived at what can only be described as a charismatic marina that stands as the gateway to a town time forgot.  Friendly and inquisitive dockhands greeted us, wanting to know about our travels and then proceeded to talk of their town with much pride.  We decided to forego dinner on the boat and instead walked "uptown" to enjoy this lovely Southern Belle, stopping at a wonderful restaurant call the Big Tuna for dinner.  Food was very good and the service was stellar - recent negative reviews on social media must have gotten their attention, as we had no fewer then 4 waiters, actually running back and forth to ensure we had everything we needed!

The town itself was a collage of circa 1700 and 1800 homes as witnessed by small signs affixed to almost every building.  No new construction was evident.  The movie theater evoked a sense of the 1950s along with its Ice Cream Parlors and old-fashioned Hardware Store.  Given the abundance of American flags and the manicured nature of all the homes and buildings, it was apparent that the residents take great pride in both their country and their town.  The historical district boasts an impressive Maritime and Paper Mill museum, collection of impressive churches and their HarborWalk elevated wharf along the entire historic riverfront area is delightful.  The city has begun to recover from a ferocious fire last fall that devastated the historic area. The only drawback to this stop was our unfortunate decision to arrive late Saturday and stay Sunday when everything is closed; of course, this is the South.  And it truly is the South - from monuments to fallen war heros to their literature and conversations -- it is The War Between the States (not the Civil War, as there was nothing civil about it).

Founded in 1729, Georgetown is the third oldest city in South Carolina - we had already visited 1 & 2, Charleston & Beaufort!  As with all these stately cities on the water, their heritage begins as shipping ports for initially indigo, then rice and lumber.  The indigo trade came to an abrupt halt at the time of the Revolutionary War.  The major customer for indigo was Great Britain and, hard to believe, they quit purchasing the indigo when we declared war!  The reason the Revolutionary War uniforms were dark blue -- an excess of indigo!  In Georgetown's case, the lumber harvesting was a great boon to the area and by 1914, they were the largest lumber producing plant on the East Coast.  Then in 1936, International Paper built a plant here, and by 1942 it had become the largest kraft paper mill in the world.

AJ atop Ivory Lady

Sunday dawned cool & beautiful - and being diligent boaters, we used the time most effectively to clean our vessel homes!  Navigator was spic & span by mid-day; Ivory Lady got a well-needed cleaning & sealing of the canvas as well as eisenglass cleaning & polish (took all day!)

Monday morning we elected for a late departure in order to bicycle through Georgetown once again and stop for breakfast at a diner that came straight-out of Andy Griffith’s Mayberry.  A gathering place for the locals prior to their busy day, it was truly a flash back to the 50s. 

Navigator leads up the Waccamaw Neck

Heading north from Georgetown, we all enjoyed the splendor of the Waccamaw River & the region known as the Waccamaw Neck.  As we meandered up the river surrounded by the Waccamaw River Heritage Preserve, the landscape changed from river marsh to forested black water with cypress, oak and water tupelo trees growing from the water to extreme heights - you quickly become immersed in your surroundings.  

The river magnifies the forest's beauty by both reflecting and adding its black coloring; a result of the tannic acid leaching from the fallen leaves and trees.  Occasionally, along the water edges, large fields of lilies mass in areas of low tidal flow. Wild life abounds with the largest concentration of ospreys we have encountered to date. It was truly an emotive experience and one that should not be missed by boaters.

The Osprey Marina was a delightful & unique experience.  Entering through a narrow tree lined canal, you find the marina nestled in a small lagoon protected from both current and wind.  Civilization is apparently a $30 cab ride away so you are truly surrounded by only nature and a few contented boaters.  

At night, you hear strange animal sounds that apparently originate from a private zoo close by, where we are told reside lions and tigers and bears – oh my!  If you enjoy turtles, the basin is full of them, as well as alligators just to keep the population balanced.  The marina is well protected and used by the locals as a hurricane hole.

The following morning, timed around boats at the fuel dock, had us anxious for another day of mystical cruising - but, alas, we quickly got into civilization and the typical South Carolina marshlands with many communities along the Myrtle Beach expanse. The only real novelty of today’s cruise was when we traveled under a suspended gondola across the ICW that apparently takes golfers from the east side of the ICW (clubhouse) to the west side (first tee). Given the number of golf courses in this area, it is apparent a novel attraction is needed to standout from the rest.  One was obviously a Greg Norman Course, given the number of buildings (store, restaurant, golf shop) that flaunted his name.

Somewhat confusingly, we cruised well past Myrtle Beach to Little River to reach the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club (our destination for the day).  It is an imposing marina with its own 50’ lighthouse at the channel entrance and some 150+ docks.  Once secured in the slip, you find the people and the marina exude the low-country charm and gracious hospitality of the smaller marinas we have visited.  We were directed to their favorite seafood restaurant and after a $6.00 cab ride found ourselves at a settlement consisting of six “restaurants” and a casino riverboat all nestled at the shoreline of the ICW with their fleet of fishing trawlers scatter about.  To say the “restaurants” were rustic would be kind.  Once you got passed the dishwashers using garden hoses to clean their pots out front, and a bar being used as a portable kitchen, the friendly atmosphere and dockside view was actually quite engaging.  When asked if their fish was fresh, the waiter was very proud to point out where they cleaned today’s catch – on the same dock where we were eating!  The food was very good and we escaped with no ill affects.

Off again the next morning, we eagerly anticipated Bald Head Island.  Sue Grote (during dinner in Charleston) said it was her favorite place on the east coast and a destination we could not miss.  She was SO right!  Once again, we were blessed (better than lucky) to have planned two days at Bald Head Island, as the weather the following day was forecasted for stormy & windy - and we were again in a protected marina. Dinner the first evening was at Delphina at the Marina - billed as a Spanish with Mexican flair.  CB took it to heart with a Cucumber Mint Martini!

With a plan to stay two days, CA arranged for a mechanic to investigate a hydraulic leak/pressurization issue with Navigator's throttles.  Mechanic arrived (via boat) as promised and, like most mechanics, provided substantial education along with issue resolution.  CB, AJ & PC spent the morning renting a golf cart (transportation of choice, as there are no cars on Bald Head Island), getting some provisions and hitting some of the boutiques in the center of the island.  By noon, mechanic was finished & CA joined us for lunch and then visits to the historic and notable locations around the island.  This trip included a visit to the hardware store - for no good mariner passes up a hardware store.  And - they had exactly what CA needed for his continued hydraulic throttle maintenance!

Remaining foundation of Cape Fear Lighthouse

The mouth of the Cape Fear River and Frying Pan Shoal off the coast are aptly named. Many a vessel ran aground on the shoals, making this area a haven for pirates & other nefarious "gentlemen".  The Cape Fear Lighthouse operated on the east end of the island from 1903 until its deactivation in 1958 (replaced by the Oak Island Light).  The Cape Fear Lighthouse had a radius of 18 1/2 miles, guiding ships around the dangers of Frying Pan Shoal.  











Old Baldy Lighthouse was on the west end of the island and marked the entrance of Cape Fear River. While decommissioned, she provides a majestic obliques on the western point of Bald Head Island.

Friday morning dawned with substantially reduced winds, but the impact on the ocean kept us going up the ICW rather than off-shore.  We keep hoping for opportunities to break free from "the ditch" and feel better about it now that Navigator throttle issues are resolved. We cruised up Cape Fear, cut over to New River and arrived at Wrightsville Beach early afternoon.  

Seapath Yacht Club was a welcome face dock just east of the ICW with a friendly and very capable dockmaster, Chris.  A courtesy car was too much to pass up - so off we went on an excursion to Best Buy, AT&T, JoAnn Fabric and Grocery that took all afternoon.  The Amigos had an early dinner aboard Ivory Lady and retired early, as the plan was for an unusually early departure slated for Saturday morning.

With 78 statute (66 nautical) miles to travel to reach Morehead City, we wanted to get off the dock at 7:30a (not really THAT early!).  It's CA & PC's 41st wedding anniversary, so we wanted to be in port at a reasonable time.  As well, there is a major Marlin Tournament in Beaufort/Morehead City and we needed to time our arrival around those activities.  The ICW along the North Carolina coast has many small inlets that make maintaining the waterway a challenge and shoaling is extremely prevalent.  Unfortunately, Navigator ran afoul of a green marker that appeared to be loose when really it had been moved far to west to mark a shoal. While CA had slowed considerably, the impact bent two blades of each prop!  After calls to every marina or boatyard we could find, the decision was made to return to Seapath, get a diver, pull the props and be ready for the prop shop to open on Monday (this is Saturday). So, here we are - enjoying the journey and thankful that the damage appears to be only the props!  Well, there is a bit of gelcoat repair needed from the boat that helped them get off the shoal.  We'll celebrate their anniversary regardless and enjoy a weekend in Wilmington & Wrightsville Beach!

May 18 - May 31 Charleston

Ivory Lady & Navigator were certainly ready for a little "rest & repair" - as were the Four Amigos!  The two weeks flew by with a great combination of boat maintenance/repair, enjoying the treasures of this Southern Lady known as Charleston and great visits with friends & family.  

We had the pleasure of spending an afternoon with Gene & Georgie Wambold from the Marathon Yacht Club.  We started with lunch at the Harbor Club and then a gentle walk to their home at 26 Queen Street.  Gene has been there since the late '90s in this 1703 townhome with private garden & lovely backhouse.  The furnishings and artwork rival many museums, while still being a gentile place to live!  Gene & his first wife, Joyce (Gene said it was all Joyce) filled the home with artwork, original documents from numerous US Presidents include our 2^nd President John Adams, antique silver, crystal and furniture that dates back hundreds of years. The backhouse is a cozy two-bedroom residence that shares the garden and is a haven in the midst of this vibrant city.   It's a lovely spot -- and they enjoy being a SNOB (read on to understand this designation!).  





The "carriage door" in the front of Gene's home is so spectacular (he varnishes it multiple times of year) that it is currently on the front of the Charleston Visitors' Map!

Circular Congregational Church

The following evening, CB & AJ connected with Gene & Georgie for an experience at the Circular Congregational Church for the "Sounds of Charleston".  A fabulous evening of music - from Gospel to Gershwin - that runs all year with an array of musicians concluding with Rhapsody in Blue (Gershwin) with four hands on a single keyboard and Amazing Grace, written by John Newton in 1779 following spending several weeks at the Church prior to his return to England.

The Amigos all thoroughly enjoyed Drayton Hall, the oldest preserved South Carolina plantation open to the public.  Built in 1738, this 630 acre indigo and rice plantation is under the care of the National Preservation Trust (not renovated) which allows one to see the original construction unaltered and gives an insight into the lives of the early inhabitants from their perspective.  Our tour guide was an archaeologist of the Revolutionary War Period and she was amazing in her ability to paint a mental picture of the lives of the Drayton family, who remained the owners & caretakers of the structure until 1967.

Memorial weekend gave CA & PC a great opportunity to welcome their daughter & son-in-law, spending some quality time and having fun sharing Charleston with them.  A trip to Middleton Plantation up the Ashley River (construction began in early 1730s) was amazing.  Endowed with the actual furnishings of the Middleton family, it was a wonderful tour back in time to the life of one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.  On the plantation was a truly unique restaurant that served a daily buffet of Southern Food that was excellent - PC fell in love with Fried Chicken again!

The next day was a carriage ride through the historic “South of Broad” district. They learned that the early city of Charleston was divided.  Those South of Broad street were the well-to-do and those North were less affluent.  Those Slightly North of Broad could still claim respectability but instead of being SOBs (South of Broad) they were considered SNOBs (Slightly North of Broad - remember the comment earlier!?!)).  This IS the same city that claims that Charleston is where the Ashley and Cooper Rivers join to form the Atlantic Ocean!

Fountain at Charleston Waterfront Park

Lunch at Hominy Grill hoped to recreate the Southern cuisine experience from Middleton Place. While the cuisine didn't quite get there, the consolation prize was a visit by Michael Keaton, who was dining there.

To insure that kids got a "real" boat experience on Navigator, CA treated them to broken toilets, full holding tanks, an air conditioner that only blew hot, and the absolute best – a fire in the topside grill requiring the use of a handy fire extinguisher. Rumor has it that it added a little flavor to the hotdogs!

Meanwhile, CB & AJ headed north to their mountain haven (Dry Dock) with cool nights and delightful days.  Visits with Larry & Nancy Weir (life-long friends), Nephew Jim Davis, Royle & Judith Duff (next door neighbors) and MYC friends, Loyal & Bonnie Eldridge -- along with opening the screen porch (read 5 hours work), gardening & burn-pile (a favorite with AJ) made the four days fly by.

Spoleto Festival USA was in full swing during our stay, which is an annual 17 day compilation of all types of music & dance productions.  CB & AJ were able to fit in an afternoon at the Dock Street Theatre (longest continuous operating theatre in America) for a fantastic chamber music concert.

Angel Oak

The Four Amigos reconnected to complete provisioning and those "boat projects".  Our last day, we found a way to take some time to explore some local & unique sites.   We made a quick stop at Angel Oak - an amazing Live Oak that is estimated to be 800 years old.  The wood in the Live Oaks is so hard & dense that it made excellent wood for ship building - a major source of revenue for the low country in the 1700-1900s.  The wood is so heavy and yet strong that the limbs bend under their own weight, but do not break. When they reach the ground, the pressure is removed and they again start reaching for the heavens, hence the name Angel Oak.

Next came the Charleston Tea Plantation (the only tea plantation in the US).  We learned that all teas (black, green, oolong, white) come from the same plant -- the Camellia, in this case the Camellia Sinenesis which translates to "Chinese Camellia". The differences are in how they are oxidized (black longest & oolong shorter, green is not) and how they are harvested (white is the flower, not the leaf, and not always recognized as "tea").  In most parts of the world, the harvesting is done by hand, but here they use the "Green Machine" which clips only the tops of the Camellia Sinenesis every 21 days from spring until fall - the plants & weather determine start & ending! The plantation is divided in 20 sections to allow for the methodical harvesting. These are high quality teas are sold under the label of American Classic Tea.  

We hit almost all of the Essentials!

After the "Finery" of the Tea Plantation, we had to make a stop at the Firefly Distillery & Winery! We sampled their wares of tea-infused vodka (tea from Charleston Tea Plantation!), moonshine & liqueurs - and were impressed enough to buy much of their inventory.  

One final dining experience in Charleston - Virginia on King Street was a must!  We had the pleasure of dining with Marathon Yacht Club members, Bob & Sue Grote!  Make no mistake, these ARE the World's Best Shrimp & Grits, a fitting ending to our Charleston Adventure.   Actually, CB & AJ got two evenings with Bob & Sue - and together they discovered an entire new "alley" of restaurants & a "social club" featuring Hemingway motif & cocktails!

We will all keep special memories of our two weeks harbored in Charleston - among them the quote shared with us by the tour guide at the Tea Plantation -- "We Southerners’ wake up each morning very slowly and then for the rest of the day we taper-off ”. 

Navigator Departing Charleston Under the Ben Sawyer Bridge
(they did, of course, go under the correct span - in case you are wondering!)

May 14 - May 18 Hilton Head Island to Charleston

We departed Savannah on a slack tide and moderate winds, which made the winding journey through the backwaters of South Carolina most enjoyable except for the Diptera: Simuliidae – man-eating black flies.  Fortunately, both vessels were armed us with the creature sapper, an electrified fly swatter.  That and the headwind help to keep them at bay. 

With a "strenuous" day of 24 miles, we arrived before lunch to the welcoming site of Harbortown Yacht Basin, with its own lighthouse and protected harbor.  It's a lovely spot that reminds one of Portofino Italy with its circular basin and colorful restaurants & shops lining the shore.  The dockmaster met us in a skiff to guide us in which was a first.  We later realized that if he didn’t use the skiff, his walk to the transit docks would equal a marathon’s distance by the end of the day.  Needless to say, we would travel that distance many times in the course of our stay.

Greeted with an efficient & pleasant dockmaster, a lovely bottle of wine, check-in at boatside (instead of the healthy walk around the basin), including all necessary information for an enjoyable stay (pool, shops, spa, restaurants), we (read PC & AJ) decided two nights just won't be enough!  As that matched well with storms projected for the third day, we all agreed to an additional night.  

T

Touted as one of the "most unique and beautiful places on earth" and after spending two full days walking, biking & running Sea Pines Plantation, we were inclined to agree!  The beautiful oak tress covering the estate are so thick they nearly block out the sun.  There are miles of bike & hiking trails, 4 manicured golf courses (including the PGA Heritage) and the remains of the old plantation on which the Resort was built.  You can spend days enjoying the beach, pool, tennis, golf, all variety of water sports and even sail on America II, Jimmy Connors winning boat in the Americas Cup.  It was certainly more than could be enjoyed during our brief visit.
Alas, Friday morning dawned clear and it was time to move on!  With a strong WNW wind, the captains had their hands full getting out of the dock and narrow basin - which they both handled skillfully.  We ran up Calibogue Sound along the western border of Hilton Head Island  The Island is 42 square miles with 12 miles of beaches on the Atlantic Ocean. Although 40% of the Island is water, its land mass still makes it the second largest barrier island in SC.  The deep-water creeks around Hilton Head and the prevalence of hardwoods made the island a popular place for shipbuilding during the early history of our Country.  In fact, Beaufort County, in which Hilton Head resides, was the largest shipbuilding area in the early colonies. Even today, when the USS Constitution, "Old Ironsides," was rebuilt in 1988, they used live oaks that were cleared to make room for Hilton Head Island's Causeway.

We crossed Port Royal Sound with rather heavy seas & opposing winds to the current and were glad to turn into Beaufort River, where the water turned Marine Green as we approached the heart of U.S. Marine Corps country.  Both Parris Island Recruit Depot and Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS) Beaufort are located within a stone through of the City of Beaufort SC.  Parris Island is the oldest USMC station in continuous use in the country.  The Marines occupied the former Naval coal-refueling Depot in 1891, first as a security detachment, then an officers’ training school, then a recruit depot.  MCAS Beauport, home of the Marine Air Group 31, was commissioned in June 1943 and contains 4 Squadrons of F/A-18.

While we had hoped to stay at the City Marina, they had yet to complete the promised electrical upgrades and low voltage is not a nice thing to do to our vessels.  As a result, we found another gem in the Lady's Island Marina located just north of the swing bridge and across the river from the Old Town Beaufort on Factory Creek.  Entry is interesting as you dodge all the anchored boats in the creek, but well worth the effort!   As we approached the dock, we were greeted with four or five line handlers; all local boaters congregating at the marina. The lead handler was a very friendly dockmaster, Steve, who apparently spends his life cruising from one marina to another offering his services to depressed marinas and turns them around.  He is doing a great job for Lady's Island Marina.  We were immediately invited to a burger and hot dog cookout with flowing beer, given all the insight on the local goings on, and provided a tour of their large workshop, which is free use to the marina boaters.  We found out later that most of the folks stop at the marina and then extend their stay as they use the facility for repairing whatever is ailing their boats - great find.  

We also met Peter, who has his boat at the Capital Yacht Club in Washington DC, so we will connect with him in early July.  But, another very small world experience - he spent this past winter on a smaller, trailer-able boat checking out "all" of the Florida Keys to make his decision about where he would spend next winter.  His decision - the same anchorage off Curry Hammock State Park were two sets of dear friends reside - Gordon & Joannie Younce aboard Blue Goose and right next door to Duke Martin & Cheryl Wilcox on land.  Thankfully, we were on the outside "T" dock - rather than these folks on the interior!  The Georgia coast has an amazing tidal shift vs the rest of the mid & south Atlantic coast!

Cannon overlooking Lady's Island Bridge

The town of Beaufort is a charming step back into the 1800s with its antebellum mansions, historic churches dating back to the early 1700s, wonderful downtown “boarding house” and hidden Five Star restaurant disguised as a quaint bistro serving a mouth-watering popover as a free appetizer.  We had an enjoyable bicycle into town (1.5 miles) and soon came to see Beaufort as a place to return to for a longer visit.  The guided tour (carriage drawn by Newman) was fabulous with the history and traditions of the old South.  The people were very friendly and the ambiance surrounding our entire visit made Beaufort one of our favorite stops thus far.

Sunday morning, May 18 found us off the docks early -- as early as the low tide would permit!  We wanted to make Charleston, which would be a long 58 NM day (about double or normal days).  The tides were mostly in our favor and fortunately, the South Carolina ICW is significantly "straighter" than Georgia.  For CB & AJ, it is a bit poignant as they lived on their waters 25 years ago when they married.

We made the turn out of Wappoo Creek (in Elliot Cut, we were fortunately running with the tide at 10+ knots at "slow" speed) and headed for the Charleston City Marina a few minutes for 3:00p. The City Marina is a very large complex that has been expanded several  times over the years, making it a sprawling and not such a pretty location.  It is, however, convenient for our upcoming two week stay with easy access to the peninsula and van service to everything we might need.  Docking with an energetic cross-current adding to the challenges, Ivory Lady & Navigator were glad to tied up for a bit.  

We're looking forward to visits with friends & family over the Memorial Day weekend. CA & PC will be joined by daughter & son-in-law.  CA & AJ will head to their cabin in the mountains for a few days.  Have a wonderful holiday everyone!