June 8 - 16 Wrightsville Beach NC to Portsmouth VA

Sunset @ Seapath Marina in Wrightsville Beach

If you're going to get "stuck" somewhere, it's wonderful to be in a delightful place and good access to the services (read repairs!) you need. The diver arrived on Saturday afternoon, arranged for Navigator's props to be worked on over the weekend and returned Monday afternoon, as promised, with the props looking like new! During our stay, we took advantage of Seapath's courtesy car several times for provisions of every type (groceries, hardware, AT&T and more!) On Saturday evening, we had a delightful anniversary celebration at Terrazo - a lovely Italian Bistro recommended by our dockmaster. Given that PC & CA have spent two anniversaries (30 & 35) in Italy and that it is favorite for all of us - it seemed providential to dine there to celebrate 41!















Tuesday morning dawned early with a 6:40am departure - we still had 70 nm of shoaling, narrow waterways and confusingly marked channels to contend with that day, as well as areas that the military can close for hours. This time, we were armed with “Active Captain” alerts on our mobile devices - technology is amazing. The journey turned into a day of recollection for CA and many unexpected highlights.







Between Wrightsville Beach and Beaufort/Morehead City lies Marine Country - Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS) New River, home of the MV-22 Osprey, Marine Corps Base Camp Lejeune, home of the USMC’s 1st Division, and Marine Corps Auxiliary Airfield Bogue Field, where the Harriers from MCAS Cherry Point often do their carrier qualifications. As CA had spent much time in all these locations, the journey was filled with many good memories that ware a joy for him to share with the Amigos.







After verifying with the Duty Officer when the ICW was to be closed (phone numbers are published for all mariners to do so), we hustled to make the window. As we passed old military vehicles on the banks of the ICW used as targets for artillery practices, we could see and feel artillery practicing to our port, which rattled our boats. As we mused that perhaps we had entered the firing line inadvertently, we heard calls from a Naval Warship doing offshore gunnery practice.





































Needless to say, a few extra RPMs on the engines was appropriate. When we finally thought we were clear of the action, an MV-22 Osprey made two fly-bys of our boats and did a vertical landing on Onslow Beach just to our stern.





































We quickly proceeded out of harms way only to be rewarded with front row seats to a couple of AV-8 Harriers performing carrier practice at Bogue Field. We could not have had a better show if CA had tried!











After nine hours of cruising, we finally arrived at the Morehead City Yacht Basin, which turned out to be well protected and quite nice, if a bit industrial. We had been unable to get into the Beaufort City Marina due to the annual Blue Marlin Tournament. This tournament attracts hundreds of large sport fishing boats and costs each boat about $35K after fuel, dockage, entry fee, and living for four days. Winning all categories can net you $1,000,000 but few win even one event!











We visited both Beaufort and Morehead City riverfront, which had not changed much since CA & PC had been stationed near by some 30 years ago. We ate at one of their old hangouts, “Clawsons”, and visited the Maritime Museum. The museum is quite impressive with its boat history and actual boathouse where they build and refurbish wooden boats. A trip to MCAS Cherry Point gave PC the opportunity to show the area to AJ and share the nostalgia of years stationed there -- PC was disappointed that her old house was so small! We finished off the stay with a tamale dinner courtesy of CA & PC's Kids who had them shipped from Texas - originally for the Anniversary Dinner, but was most enjoyable a few days later!























Thursday morning, we cruised the Newport River, through Adams Creek and into the Neuse River. Again a travel down memory lane for CA & PC from their early days based in the area. The Neuse River provides a great sailing venue and, with its 248 miles all contained within North Carolina it is the longest river in the State. Here again, industry competes with recreation, as shrimp boats wreak havoc upon sailing races as they drag their nets wherever their hearts desire with no consideration for other boaters, even in the narrow passages of the ICW.















Just past Oriental, we entered Broad Creek for our dockage at River Dunes Marina. This is a extraordinary planned community with evidence that it's making progress toward a fully functioning resort. If anyone has perused any real estate magazines, you will have seen marketing materials for the Oriental NC area - close access to the Atlantic and relatively inexpensive real estate costs.



















The facility boasts a clubhouse, pool with enclosed cabanas, fitness center & 2 jacuzzis. The clubhouse is elegant with a library, meeting area, and a bar/restaurant upstairs. Unfortunately, the restaurant is only operational on weekends, so after a dip in the pool for some (CB & AJ) and boat maintenance for others (CA), we took advantage of the courtesy car for a trip into Oriental for dinner. While once this might have been a vibrant fishing/shrimping center, it is now rundown and sad.



















We were off again early on Friday. The Neuse River with its quartering swells made the ride resemble the mechanical bull ride at Billy Bob’s Texas Steak House. A turn up the Bay River provided smoother waters and CA pointed out bombing ranges he & his squadron used as Harrier pilots. One in particular, the Ship Target, sets well out into the Pamlico Sound. This target was strafed for an entire day by CA's squadron only to find out later that a fishing boat had sunk that morning and the crew had sought refuge on the target ship. As expected, the squadron received a lot of heckling after the crew was rescued without a scratch on them except, of course, for frayed nerves!































Our day ended at Dowry Creek, a peaceful marina nestled in a woodland of pines and marshlands of the Pungo River. When you meet Mary, the marina owner, you get a sense that she keeps Dowry Creek going for more than just her livelihood. Her daily “Happy Hours” in the Captain’s Lounge and large rocking chairs on the porch convey Mary’s aptitude for socializing. After all, with only the small town of Belhaven some seven miles away, what better way to stay connected with civilization then to cater to boaters who themselves tend to be social.



















Off again early (are you seeing a pattern!?), we traversed the Alligator River-Pungo River Canal, a 20nm stretch of the ICW. With forests right to each riverbank, it gives one the sensation of being in a narrow & straight tunnel, albeit a picturesque tunnel. The forests were dense and possessed stretches where the dreaded kudzo had completely covered the trees giving it the appearance of a toothed quilt. In this 20 nm stretch, we encountered only three vessels - everything was quiet and peaceful.























We emerged from the canal and into the wide expanse of Alligator River, watching diligently for any sign of alligators – no luck. The Alligator River is surrounded by a national wildlife refuge and one of the last remaining strongholds for the black bear on the Eastern Seaboard; again, no sightings.























As we approached the Alligator River Swing Bridge, the accommodating bridge tender began his opening process when we were still almost a mile from the bridge. Given the amount of traffic we had seen on the water, we could only assume he was bored! Given that this bridge is Route 64 and the access to the southern islands of the Outer Banks, we decided to increase our speed (not advised by USCG) to reduce the wait-time for the automobiles (20 minutes) and reduce our chances of our becoming victims of road rage.



























































Navigator Leaving "The Gas Station"















Immediately north of the bridge, we turned west to Alligator River Marina, which should be named Gas Station Marina! It was simply a Shell Gas Station on a busy highway whose claim to fame is the best chicken dinner in North Carolina (if you like eating at a gas station). The dockmaster is the gas station attendant and maybe the cook!







































Look closely for the Rabbits!



































Fortunately, both Ivory Lady & Navigator are totally self-supporting, so we did not need to use any facilities; the docking was easy, the harbor protected and the wasp nests in the power pedestals did not attack CB!. The one delight was waking at sunrise and seeing the lawn filled with rabbits having their breakfast.















































































We left early to beat the increasing winds of the late afternoon and hopefully arrive at Coinjock Marina before the crowd and get a berth close to the Restaurant, even though it was to be a "short day" of some 30 miles.







































Sunrise over Albemarle South















Albemarle Sound is a sizeable body of brackish (between fresh & salt) water separated from the Atlantic by the North Carolina’s Outer Banks on which rests Kitty Hawk, Nags Head, and the less famous Kill Devil Hills. Unknown to many, Kill Devil Hills is actually the sight of the Wrights Brother's famous flight. The name was not politically correct in 1903, so Kitty Hawk became famous. Mistakenly, Kill Devil Hills gained its name not from killings or even the Devil but from the fact that locals would strip shipwrecks of their cargo and hide the rum in the dunes adjacent to their settlement. Rum in the 1700s was commonly referred to as “Kill Devil”.























The crossing was fairly calm after the first 30-45 minutes. We had seen little boat traffic again that day, yet after we docked, the 1200' of dock space quickly filled with no less than a cruise liner, 6-8 mega yachts, 3-4 large sailboats and our two boats. As has happened to us all during the course of this trip, memory lane is a great trip - and we are surprised by things being so different that we recall. Coinjock Marina was the first stop for CB & AJ aboard their first boat, Golden Dawn, when they purchased her in Annapolis and took her to Charleston to be their first home in 1988. Having cruised overnight, all day and finally arriving in the cold and dark in late November, it had been a very welcome site. Pleasant again this time, but much more developed that they remembered, including a restaurant featuring a 16-ounce or 32-ounce prime rib. It was Father's Day and the restaurant was packed - but we had wisely made reservations and enjoyed the experience.



































Monday morning - yes, another early departure (6:15a) - would take us 43 nm to the end of the AICW (Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway). With all of the vessels at the marina, the trip was more like what CB had been promising for several weeks - a super-highway of boats passing each other on a race to "somewhere". We crossed Currituck Sound, with miles of water 2' deep and a narrow channel that was not nearly as imposing in daylight as AJ had remembered from 26 years ago. However, with mega-yachts passing us and us passing sailboats, there was a lot of jockeying for position - but everyone was courteous and exercised good yachting & communication skills.











































As we approached Hampton Roads (Norfolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth), the bridge schedules became very important - and we met up with many of the large vessels that had screamed past us earlier. One wonders why they spend all the $ on fuel only to hold in place for an hour until the bridge opens!















































































At MM 11, we encountered the Great Bridge and Great Bridge Lock - the first of over a hundred we will do in the course of the Great Loop. CB kept wondering - if we started at sea-level at Coinjock (that morning) and ended at sea-level at Portsmouth (that night) - why was a lock necessary?







































































































Regardless, through it we must go - with the river cruise ship, 3 mega yachts, Next Chapter & Ivory Lady. Unfortunately, the sun was hot and the going was slow - but we made it without issue and cruised our way into Tidewater Yacht Basin at Atlantic Intra-coastal mile marker 0!!



















































































Tired & hot, we were none-the-less proud of this accomplishment! Ivory Lady & Navigator left Marathon on April 5 at Mile Marker 1195 - and, of course, Navigator had already done the mileage from St. Pete to Marathon a month earlier. So, here we are - thankful we're here safe, filled with memories of the Intracoastal Waterway, and anxious to launch the next phase - exploring the history and beautiful of the Chesapeake Bay.