May 4 to May 8 - Jekyll Island & St. Simons Island to Savannah Yacht Club

After our days of clouds & rain, the day of our departure from our little haven was clear, cool and gorgeous!  We were all a bit sad to leave the tranquility of St Marys and vowed to return.  Where else in the world would you see a menu like this from the Shark Bite Restaurant - Mac & Cheese eight ways!  We continue to be amazed at all the people that "look down" on St Marys as a less than popular place to be!

Degausing Shed (demagnitizes Subs upon Return)

We cruised back out the St Marys River and turned right, heading north into Georgia territory.  One of the first sights is the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, which is "the employer" now for St Marys, as the paper mill is long gone.  Kings Bay was built during the Jimmy Carter years and those of us that lived in Charleston continue to see it as a highly political decision, as it was a major factor in moving jobs from Charleston Naval Station into Georgia.  Be that as it may, it is an impressive sight.  

It is a formidable series of Sub Hangars used to house and replenish our largest and most lethal submarines; the Intercontinental Ballistic Missile (ICBM) boats commonly referred to a Boomers.  We got a glimpse of two of the Boomers because the SALT Treaty (mid-1970s)  requires that we leave the bow of each Boomer protruding out of the hangars so the Russians can count them while they are in port.  We also saw an SSGN (Guided Missile Sub).  These are Boomers converted to carry cruise missiles (versus the ICBMs) and SEALs - something close to our hearts.  They have a dry deck shelter mounted on their deck to carry underwater SEAL Delivery Vehicles (SDV) and extra crew quarters available as the result of the removal of a number of the ICBM launch tubes.

We traveled most of the day with Cumberland Island to our starboard exiting into St. Andrews Sound just south of Jekyll Island; only one of four Georgia barrier Islands that can be reached by causeways.  The passing marshes and tree-lined coast were pristine except for an occasional structure that always seemed out of place.  We saw the occasional shrimp boat hauling its nets with the ever-present seagulls picking at the remains but this passage gave one a sense of seclusion far-removed from civilization. 

Our port of call was Jekyll Harbor Marina, located directly on the ICW.  As we approaching the marina, that sense of seclusion remained.  The docks where connected to the land but appeared to lead to nowhere.  Upon close scrutiny, there was a dockmaster's "shack", restaurant and pool hidden in the trees (a good distance from the docks).  We were on the Island that spawned the Creature of Jekyll Island but we would have to ride our bikes to appreciate its grandeur.

Crane "Cottage"

The island is woven with 20 miles of bicycle paths, through lush forests, wooden bridges and over vast marshlands.  Off we went to the historic Jekyll Island Club District.  The District, two hundred and forty acres of historic winter cottages, were built by America’s wealthiest men at the end of the 19^th and beginning of the 20^th centuries as a winter retreat for the wealthy.   The enormous Jekyll Island Club Hotel was their clubhouse where only the 100 of the country’s elite were allowed to join. The “Club Period”, as the locals refer to it, lasted from 1888 until 1942.  At that time, Franklin Roosevelt realized that every January Industrialists and Bankers, representing 1/6^th of the country’s wealth, congregated for the winter.  Considering it too good a target for German saboteurs, he closed the Club, after which it never reopened.  Purchased by the State of Georgia in 1947, it is now a well-manicured historical State Park.

We took a carriage ride tour of the estates and afterward had drinks at the famous Jekyll Club Hotel from which the creature of Jekyll Island emerged.  Not your typical evil monster of threatening qualities but rather a sinister monstrosity born of man – the Federal Reserve System (FRS). Not a Government entity at all, the FRS is the world’s most powerful financial institution controlling trillions of dollars of America’s money.  None of the FRS officials are elected by the People of American and its decisions do not have to be ratified by anyone in the executive, judicial or legislative branches of government. Yet in 2008, this institution loaned European banks $16 trillion dollars of US money - enough to pay-off our country's debt (at that time!).  How can this be?  The FED is a private corporation owned by the banks with no Government affiliation or oversight.  Yet because they have banded together into a single entity (analogous to a monopoly), they control the flow of all US banking dollars and exercise this authority at their whim – scary right?

The Jekyll Island Club was the location where Senator Nelson Aldrich, Asst Secretary of the US Treasury A. Piatt Andrew and five of the country's leading financiers  (Frank Vanderlip, Henry P. Davison, Charles D. Norton, Benjamin Strong & Paul Warburg) gathered in 1902 to discuss the banking system, which ultimately developed into the Federal Reserve System.  Was it a mere coincidence that the meeting was held at the Club of America’s richest?  

We enjoyed a libation (or two) at the gorgeous Lobby Bar of the Clubhouse and then bicycled over to the Crane Cottage (Crane of plumbing fame) for a light dinner in the Courtyard.

We left Jekyll Island early the next morning headed for the best priced diesel on the southeast coast at Ocean Petroleum in Brunswick GA.  New to both boating couples, we could only imagine what an industrial refueling dock such as Ocean Petroleum would entail; we were not disappointed.  We approached the flimsy floating dock with no apparent refueling hoses and absent any dockmaster or personnel of any kind.  After we secured our boats by ourselves, down walked a rather lovely-looking young lady in skintight pants & blouse and sporting high heels.  Much to our surprise, she unlocked the refueling locker and pulled out the refueling hose and refueled our two boats.  This is American entrepreneurial spirit at its best!  What self-respecting Shrimp Boat Captain needing a couple of thousand gallons of fuel wouldn’t want to spend the morning with this lovely lady - only in Georgia! 

We proceeded on to St. Simons Island and Morningstar Marina.  Arriving on an incoming tide and an opposing wind, but both Captains overcame the challenges (including the dockmaster) and brought the vessels safely into dock. This marina has lots of memories for CB & AJ, as Cousin John & Trudy were with us four years ago on Ivory Lady's first journey to Charleston.  It's a lovely floating dock marina, but head & shower facilities are so far away, you need a 50-power set of binoculars to see them.  What is it with Georgia Marinas that make them think facilities need to be at least a football field or two away from the docks? 

St. Simons Island is the largest of Georgia's Barrier Islands and boasts a causeway, airport and a lighthouse built in the early 1800s.  The original lighthouse (built in 1810) was destroyed by Confederate soldiers in 1862 as they departed the island so that the Union forces couldn't use it as an aid to navigation.  The current Lighthouse and Keeper's Dwelling was built in 1872 and continues to provide navigational aid to seamen with a fresnel light that can be seen close to 25 miles out to sea.  There are 129 steps to the top - CB & AJ enjoyed the climb and the view it provided of the surrounding area.

View from the Top of the St. Simons Lighthouse

The town has a large collections of art & clothing stores in the historic quarter, which could take all day to visit - just ask PC & AJ!  The island also lays witness to country clubs and estates that suggests prosperity and affluence.  However, under its swaying moss drooping from oak canopies, this island also exudes a charming and unhurried existence.   Certainly a place that deserves more than a two-day stop – perhaps on the next voyage.

Along our journeys, we encounter many words of wisdom and a few signs that MAKE you read them!  This was on the property immediately beside the Keeper's Dwelling - which speaks to the challenges they must have with so many visitors each year!

We timed our departure from St. Simons on Wednesday, May 8 to insure we would be at Little Mud River at least a mid-tide and rising tide. Our plan was to anchor out at Crescent River about 30nm north of St. Simons, but as we traveled north, the Georgia flying pests were getting bigger and more vexing.  The thought of having to share an anchorage with them at night was rather disheartening so we decided to press-on to Kilkenny Creek and the infamous Kilkenny Marina. 

If you’ll recall our previous entries, the Georgia ICW is a collection of rivers winding through the monotonous flat marshlands imitating the movement of a snake.  For every mile we moved towards our destination, we moved two miles sideways making our decision to proceed onto Kilkenny a rather lengthy (and boring to some) endeavor.  We had discussed the potential for going "off shore" and head straight north to Savannah, but the appeal of the coastline prevailed.  However, in reflection, this would have been the day to "press-on" with a 70 mile off-shore experience!  

Kilkenny, however, is as interesting a marina as you will ever find.  Nestled under the majestic oaks of the Kilkenny plantation, the marina consists of a single wooden dock that rocks side-to-side under each step one takes.  The cleats used to secure one’s boat are a series of 2’x4’ boards nailed to the side of the dock.  To connect the dock to land, which at times is 12 feet above the water, a wooden ramp makes you question whether it can sustain the weight of more than a single “small” individual at a time.  The head and shower facilities appears to be a single out house, again some distance away from the boats and at night you are serenaded by the sounds of falling water as they pump out their bait wells all night long. 

Navigator at Kilkenny Marina (note ramp & deckboards)

 We asked to get off the beaten cruising path and we got our wish.  This marina is a once in a lifetime experience - except CB & AJ have done it before!  Ivory Lady & Navigator had been docked about 30 minutes, when around the bend came a very large vessel that was going to consume all the remaining available dockage.  As they snugged onto the dock, we were amazed to see another Marathon Yacht Club burgee on their bow!  There was Tony McKissick, Sally Ann & crew - what a nice surprise!

The morning dawned with a breathtaking sunrise over the marsh.  Departure was again timed to deal with Hell's Gate, which was approx 10 NM to our north.  PC & AJ captained the vessels as we departed the marina and CA & CB handled the lines.  It was a easy 25 NM journey, arriving at Savannah Yacht Club in the early afternoon.  Greeted by able dockmaster & assistant, we were nestled in for a couple of days. Savannah Yacht Club was the sight of the 1996 Olympics for Sailing and an amazing Club it is!  We'll look forward to touring the Club, enjoying its amenities and visiting with friends for the next couple of days!