May 9 - 13 Savannah Yacht Club to Savannah

The Savannah Yacht Club is by far the largest and arguably the most beautiful Yacht Club we have seen.  Resting at the end of a long oak covered shell road, the complex consists of an impressive Clubhouse, two large pools, 11 Tennis Courts, a Sailing Center boat house, a Keeper’s (Manager) House, and acres of concrete floating docks.   Founded in 1869, it was originally known as “The Regatta Association of Chatham County.” In 1871, it was re- named “The Regatta Association of Georgia” and in 1875 the name was again changed to “The Savannah Yacht Club.” This Club was actually located in Thunderbolt about a mile up river from its current location.  In 1976, the Club officers decided to buy two large islands across the river and build a new Yacht Club on one of the Islands.  They maintain the other as a camping retreat for the members.  In 1996, the Club hosted the yachting events for the Atlanta Summer Olympics– no small undertaking!

Arrival was easy as the tide, winds and dockmaster were all in sync!  We had a pleasant tour of the Club (hence the history above!) and dinner there both nights.  The second night, there were again TWO Marathon Yacht Club burgees flying as George & Pat Hospodar (Great America Loop book authors) joined The Four Amigos on the outside dock.  They are, however, on a destination - getting home - rather than a journey, so it was a quick but delightful visit.  Southern hospitality abounds at the Club and the atmosphere was truly Southern antebellum.

As we left the dock on Saturday morning, May 10, the chartplotter indicate 4.6nm to our destination (but as the crow flies!).  As we motored up the Wilmington River, we actually got as close as 3.2nm before the distance began to open again and close and open until we entered the Savannah River at Mackey Pt.  Finally, we were heading directly for Savannah as we entered the river and completed our journey of 11.2nm.  

Where's the Tug?

As the Savannah River is a large shipping channel, we encountered massive container ships both while underway and at dockside.  We are still amazed that they allow these behemoths free navigation of the narrow river without even a safety tug! Our marina choice was the Westin where we were moored right on the river’s northern bank.  With Ivory Lady having been there before, there was knowledge that the north side is MUCH nicer than the south side, even though we were across the river from Old Town. Regardless, the size of the ships and their incessant need to blow their horns as they rounded the bend in the river (or entertain the tourists on land) along with their wakes (bow & stern) made for an interesting dockage location - especially as most of the container traffic seemed to be at night!  Although it tended to interrupt our slumber at times, the location and view we had was simply splendid.

Navigator & Ivory Lady moored at Savannah Westin

Being moored on the north side of the river required that we use a water ferry to reach historic Savannah, but as they were free & ran every 20 minutes, it just added to the enjoyment of this city.  The first day we continued with our normal plan of taking a trolley tour of the city then planning the next days' events based on the results.

Savannah’s original design comprised a series “wards”, each of which contained 8 blocks built in a square specifically designed around a park to allow for social interaction.  The commercial structures (trust lots) where east and west of the park with the residential houses (tything blocks) situated north and south of the park.  The trust lots were restricted to commercial activity for the first 50 years and then a few were released for residences. 

There were 24 of these “wards” built with 24 parks of which 22 remain today.  Many of the original buildings still exist, which added much flavor to the tour.  With buildings dating back to the Revolutionary War, Savannah is a history buff’s paradise. 

The design of the buildings facing the bank of the river was quite impressive as well - known as Factor's Row.  Factors were the brokers (primarily cotton) that negotiated sales and literally set the price worldwide for cotton.  The city’s elevation is actually about 2-3 stories above the river, so the large multi-story buildings provided 3-4 stories at street level for offices and 3-4 stories for warehousing and physical shipping activity.   The ramps & walkways connecting the river district to the city streets are cobblestone, brought by the ships as ballast and left for scrap as they loaded the ship with cotton, rice and indigo.

Rear of Owens-Thomas House

We ventured out early Sunday morning to the City Market and the very impressive Maritime Museum with its incredible model ship collection representing Savannah's history in shipping as well as defense through decades to WWII.  Lunch was quite enjoyable at Molly MacPherson’s Scottish Pub with an assortment of Scottish Whiskey that filled five pages of a Scotch List - the boys were happy and promised to return during our stay!  The docent at the Maritime Museum recommended a visit to the Owens-Thomas House, one of three house tours available in the city.  This English Regency style residence built in 1891 has been retained in essentially its original state, which is a requirement for a house tour. The architect, William Jay, was responsible for both the Museum Scarborough House and the Owens-Thomas House.  An Englishman, he was 24 when we designed this superb structures..  

Monday took us to the Mercer-Williams House. Constructed in 1860 for General Mercer (Great Grandfather of Johnny Mercer), it is one of the few homes built on the commercial trust lots and encompasses a complete block with addresses on two streets.  While the size, architecture, and antiques are amazing, it is the history from 1969 after Jim Williams purchased the home that made this house a landmark.  The book (and movie), “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” chronicled the murder of Danny Hansford by Williams in the study of the home.  Williams was tried four times for the murder, but the jury was never able to find him guilty of the crime.  The docent was extremely knowledgeable and you got the sense that she knew "Jim" and was clear in her description of the study, where Jim defended himself that fateful night!    

Another lesson learned - always ask the people working in these tourist areas for where THEY eat!  It found us Molly MacPherson's and the next day, the Crystal Beer Parlor!  We all agreed with this sign on the fireplace mantle!

Our final night in this gracious city found us at “The Olde Pink House” for dinner - supposedly Savannah’s only 18^th Century Mansion.  Built on land granted by the crown of England to his father, James Habersham Jr. lived in his plantation from 1771 to 1800. While his father was loyal to the Crown, James Jr was an active supporter of the Revolutionists and many meetings were held in the home to helped secure the independence of the 13 colonies from England. Food was superb, wait staff friendly and the house was an interesting collections of leftover architectural additions added by each subsequent owner; boarding house, brothel, bank.  We then returned to Molly’s (as promised) for a sip of Dalwhinnie (single malt scotch).

CB & AJ at the Olde Pink House